






,v 



<£"* 



L 1 ?^ 



; ^^ 



•A 



**0* 






%/ 










*^ 










**o* 








»°V 






















„* v ^ 



SKELETON TOURS 

*^y 

THROUGH ENGLAND, SCOTLAND, IRELAND, 

WALES, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, 

RUSSIA, POLAND, AND SPAIN, 



VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING FROM PLACE TO PLACE, THE TIME 

OCCUPIED, AND THE COST OF EACH JOURNEY TO A PARTY 

OF FOUR. WITH SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL THINGS 

TO SEE, ESPECIALLY COUNTRY HOUSES. 



HENRY WINTHROP SARGENT. 



NEW YORK: 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 

90, 92, & 94 GKAND STREET. 
1870. 



yt 



A 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by 

D. APPLETON & CO., 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for 

the Southern District of New York. 




PREFACE. 

The object of the author in publishing these little 
tours is twofold. One, and the principal, is to answer 
the universal question of all travellers — "How do you 
get from one place to another, and how long does it 
take? " and, secondly, " What does it cost? " 

To Americans, who do not shrink from purchasing 
in London forced peaches at a guinea apiece, the latter 
question is not usually so important as the former. 
To most of my countrymen expenditure of time is 
more disturbing than that of money. 

There are plenty of guide-books in the world, and 
very excellent ones too, which give you every sort of 
general information when you arrive at a place, and 
which also give you a general idea of how to get 
there; but none, that I am aware of, which specify 
precisely the exact way and time of passing from one 
place to another. This is especially true of out-of-the- 
way places — "the nooks and corners of England," 
and countries comparatively unknown, such as Nor- 



4 PREFACE. 

way, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, and even Spain. 
Many travellers would visit these countries, could they 
have placed before them the exact ways and means 
of accomplishing these tours, both time and cost. The 
burden of finding out how to travel in Norway, for 
instance — how to get there, where to go, what to see, 
and what money to take — is so great, that impatient 
or indolent persons give it up in despair, and prefer to 
follow the old beaten tracks of Italy or Switzerland, 
or spend the balance of their time and money in Paris. 
It is to aid this class that these little guides have been 
published. The author does not pretend that they are 
the best routes that could be taken ; in fact, much was 
omitted in his various journeys which would, no doubt, 
be very interesting to a large class of travellers, and 
there is a good deal done in England which, to persons 
who have no rural taste, had better be omitted ; and 
it might not be amiss to say here that the author's tour 
in England was mainly to see all the country places 
worth seeing, large or small, and in mentioning these 
he has been led to go into more detail in their descrip- 
tion than is consistent with the original intention of 
these guides; and he has been induced to do this 
solely for the sake of calling the attention of those 
travellers interested in such matters to these very 
extraordinary places — such as Elvaston Castle, Bid- 
dulph Grange, Alton Towers, Levens Hall, etc. — 



PEE FACE. 5 

which, being off the common line of travel, and not 
usually mentioned in English guide-books, would not 
otherwise be known ; secondly, to see all the cathe- 
drals ; thirdly, the university and school towns ; and 
fourthly, the various watering-places and spas. In 
accomplishing these several objects, it was necessary 
to go over the length and breadth of England, across 
country, by post as well as by rail ; and although, as 
before said, the English route might have been better, 
yet the author cannot but think that any one following 
his footsteps would see and know more of England 
than most Englishmen, and quite as much as any 
American traveller would care to know. The same is 
true, in a more limited extent, perhaps, of Spain and 
the northern countries. The old track through France, 
Italy, Germany, and Switzerland, is so well beaten that 
it has been omitted. 

As to the expense of these journeys, it must, of 
course, depend very much upon the purse and inclina- 
tion of the traveller. The prices mentioned in these 
tours were for a party of four, without reference to 
expense, having always the best apartments at hotels, 
with private meals invariably, and the best convey- 
ances, either rail or carriage — not, however, including 
extras, wines, or amusements — and during the years 
1866-68. Of course, four persons might travel at 
much less cost, by taking cheaper conveyances — occa- 



6 PEE FACE. 

sionally, second-class carriages on the railways, and 
their meals at a table d'hote. It must, however, be 
understood that four persons can travel cheaper than 
two, or even one, in proportion, for various reasons 
not necessary to mention here. 

In conclusion, the author would simply remark that 
these little tours — the one through England being 
especially horticultural, calling attention to certain 
country places seldom visited or even known to Amer- 
icans — are particularly intended to assist those who 
have not time or interest enough to work out their 
own journey (a matter always sufficiently perplexing), 
and who are willing to be satisfied with seeing what 
the writer has seen. The time-tables of the various 
railways and boats have, of course, changed, and it 
would be necessary to alter the journey as far as this ; 
but the time, of course, is always the same in making 
the journey, though the hours may have changed. The 
season of the year when these journeys were made has 
been retained in the guides, as the best for the differ- 
ent tours, though by no means necessary. 

II. W. S. 
Wodenethe, Fislikill-on-Hudson, 1870. 



SKELETON TOUES 



FIRST TOUR. 

ENGLAND, IEELAND, SCOTLAND, AND WALES. 

{For Four Persons.) 

Aug. 18. — Breakfast at Queenstown. Walk £ s. 
about the town. Take steamer at 9.30 up the 
River Lea to Cork, 13 miles, in preference to 
rail. Lunch at Imperial Hotel, after which 
drive in jaunting-car to Blarney Castle and to 
the Groves of Blarney, seeing yews 700 years 
old, and an Araucaria 15 feet high. Expenses 
at Queenstown, custom-house fees, and break- 
fast, 2 5 

Aug. 19. — Walk or drive about the town, 
seeing the churches ; drive to the country-place 
of Mr. Leigh. Beautiful Araucarias, Pinus in- 
signis, Thmpsis, etc. ; exquisite flower-garden. 

Aug. 20. — About town in the morning ; after 

lunch, in a jaunting-car to Black Rock Castle, 2 5 
V 



cork.] IRELAND. [imperial hotel. 

and to Mr. Pike's place — very beautiful flowers. £ s. 
Back by Cemetery, seeing Father Matthew's 2 5 
grave — car, 10 

Aug. 21. — Leave Cork for Youghal, by rail, 
at 9.40, reaching Youghal at 10.45. Drive 
through the town to Sir "Walter Raleigh's 
house, where the first potatoes were planted, 
and the yew-trees, where Sir "Walter smoked 
his pipe to the horror of his servants, who, 
thinking him on fire, poured water over him. 
The house very quaint, with walls and fire- 
places panelled in black Irish bog-oak. See 
St. Mary's Church, founded in the eleventh cen- 
tury. At 2, taking boat, steam up the Black- 
water, with exquisite views and places ; arrive 
at Cappaquin at 4; where, taking a jaunting- 
car, drive through " Belmont," Sir John Kane's, 
a grand old place, with some fine cedars of 
Lebanon, to the monastery at Mallory, 4 miles, 
containing 100 Trappists, vowed to perpetual 
silence; thence, 4 miles farther, to Lismore, 
where dine and sleep at the Devonshire Arms. 
Fare to Youghal, 12s. ; lunch and car, 12s. ; 
boat, 6s. ; car, 12s., 2 2 

Aug. 23. — Visit Lismore Castle, a splendid 
restoration by the late Duke of Devonshire, and 
also to a most exquisite little place belonging 
to Mr. Baldwin ; at 12, take cars to Fermoy, 12 
miles, and back to Cork. Expenses at Lis- 
more, 1 12 

Aug. 24. — Leave Cork in posting-carriage, at 

9.30, passing through the finest possible scenery. 6 9 
8 



lismore.] IRELAND. [landsdown arms. 

About 1, reach Inchigeelagh to lunch (wonder- £ s. 
fully situated, in the wildest and most extraor- 6 9 
dinary scenery). Soon after starting, at 2, pass 
the lake of Gongane-Barra, where whoever 
bathes in its waters is saved from all diseases, 
and enter the far-famed pass of Keeiman Eigh, 
perhaps one of the wildest and most savage in 
the world, about 2 miles long, and celebrated 
as the place where the O'Learys and O'Sulli- 
vans, after they were outlawed, lived for cen- 
turies, preying upon strangers and their neigh- 
bors, and where the illicit distilleries are even 
now concealed. It was in this pass, also, 
that the White Boys destroyed the royal troops 
by throwing rocks down upon them. Pro- 
ceeding round the head of the beautiful Bay of 
Bantry, reach Roche's Hotel, at Glengariff, at 
8 p. m., having posted 66 miles from Cork, 
changing horses only once. Bill at Cork, five 
days, £10 10s. ; post-horses to Killarney, £6 15s., 17" 5 

Aug. 25. — At Glengariff. . . 

Aug. 26. — Leave Glengariff at 9, in posting- 
carriage, passing Cromwell's Bridge and ascend- 
ing the mountains for 4 miles, until, after pass- 
ing through a tunnel 600 feet long, you come 
suddenly upon the kingdom of Kerry, the 
whole property for 20 miles belonging to the 
Marquis of Landsdown. Arrive at 12.30, 
through the most sublime views of the Killar- 
ney and Kerry Mountains, at Kenmare, where 

lunch at the Landsdown Arms. Yisit the 

convent, where beautiful Irish lace may be 23 14 
9 



KILLARNEY.] IRELAND. [VICTORIA HOTEL. 

bought. Starting again at 3, reach the Victoria 
Hotel at Killarney at 8. Bill at Glengariff, £4 
10s. ; lunch at Kenmare, 10s., .... 

Aug. 27. — Take a four-oared boat and bugler 
at 9; row to Eoss Castle; built in twelfth 
century ; destroyed in the civil war by Crom- 
well; once the stronghold of the O'Donahue, 
whose spirit still appears once in seven years. 
Thence, by Lady Kenmare Cottage, through 
the Wier Bridge to Eagle's Nest, where the 
bugle-echoes are most beautiful; to upper 
lake, where lunch, returning at 1 to Mucross, 
O'Sullivan's Cascade, and Innisfallen, perhaps 
the most beautiful spot in the world; an 
island of 21 acres, with magnificent park-trees; 
a thorn 140 feet in circumference (the head), 
and a holly 14 feet in circumference (the stem) ; 
a splendid old abbey in ruins, built in seventh 
century. Eeturn at 5 p. m 

Aug. 28. — Walk through Lord Kennard's 
grounds, and, after lunch, by jaunting-car to 
Mucross Abbey, a most charming and well-pre- 
served ruin, 800 years old. In the centre of 
the cloisters is a yew coeval with the abbey, 10 
feet in circumference (the trunk), and said to 
be the highest in Europe. Afterward, home 
to dinner, through Mr. Herbert's grounds. 
For those who have time or inclination, a very 
agreeable excursion may be made through the 
Gap of Dunloe and Kate Kearney's Cottage. . 

Aug. 29. — Leave Killarney at 10.30, by train. 

Reach Limerick, Cruise's Royal Hotel, at 2.30. 28 
10 



LniEBicK.] IRELAND, [cruise's royal hotel. 

See the cathedral, built in 1 100, partly destroyed £ s. 

by Cromwell; very ancient and interesting, 28 14 

especially the tombs of the O'Briens ; also the 

old castle built by King John. Bill (two days) 

at Killarney and boat, 7 15 

Aug. 30. — Leave Limerick at 12. Reach 
Dublin at 6, Gresham Hotel. Bill at Limerick, 2 10 
Fare by rail to Dublin and car, . . . 3 10 

Aug. 31. — Take car and drive round the town 
to Bank of Ireland, the different churches, the 
city hall, the Four Courts, the Custom-House, 
Trinity College, with fine portraits in the din- 
ing-hall of Queen Elizabeth and Dean Swift. 

Sept. 1. — Take car at 9.30 and drive to Phoe- 
nix Park. See the viceregal lodge and the 
Chief Secretary's house, also the castle, where 
the chapel and state apartments are very fine. 
See Glas Nevin Cemetery. 

Sept. 2. — Sunday, to St. Patrick's Cathedral, 
where Dean Swift once officiated. After lunch, 
to Bray by rail — a celebrated watering-place — 
here, taking a car, drive to Lord Monck's and 
Lord Powerscourt's ; dine at Bray ; back to 
Dublin by train at 8. Expenses to and from 
Bray, 16s. ; dinner, £1 3s. ; car, 10s., . .29 

Sept. 3. — Go by train at 10.30 to Maynooth. 
See the Institution, and also Carton near by, 
the residence of the Duke of Leinster, with 
most beautiful grounds and superb trees, espe- 
cially cedars of Lebanon ; the house charmingly 
situated, over an Italian garden, and in view 



44 18 



11 



dublix.] IRELAND. [gresham hotel. 

of a splendid park, the vases in the garden £ s. 
being enclosed in wicker-work. Back to Dub- 44 18 
lin at 5. Expenses, rail, . . . . 12 

To those disposed to go to the Giant's Cause- 
way, via Belfast, and return to Dublin, the 
time occupied would be about four days. Bill 
at Dublin, one week, four persons, . . . 23 6 

Sept. 4. — Leave Dublin at 6 a. m. and 
Kingstown at 7, by boat, reaching Holyhead at 
11, and by train in an hour to the Menai Bridge. 
George Inn, one of the best in England, in full 
view of the suspension bridge. After lunch, 
take a carriage and drive to Bangor, a quaint old 
town, and to Penryn Castle, seeing the model 
cottages, the old church, and splendid yew 
avenue, 150 years old. Back to dinner. Fare 
from Dublin to Holyhead, . . . 3 16 

Sept. 5. — Leave the hotel at 9 in carriage, 8 
miles to Carnarvon, a splendid old castle, built 
in 1283 by King Edward I., and in fine pres- 
ervation. Then 9 miles farther, through the 
grand pass of Llanberris, one of the most 
remarkable in Europe, in full sight of Snow- 
don, 3,571 feet high, returning to the George 
Inn to dine. Expenses and lunch, . . 1 15 

Sept. 6. — By carriage to Plas Newyd, seat 
of the Marquis of Anglesea ; a fine park, grand 
trees, and superb views of the Snowdon range ; 
also to Beaumorris Castle, a very interesting 
ruin, built by Edward I., and having 26 towers. 

Eeturn to the George to lunch. Taking train 

at 2.15, reach Chester at 5 (Queen's Hotel), 74 7 
12 



MENAI BRIDGE.] WALES. [THE GEORGE INN. 

where see the cathedral, built (a large portion) £ s. 
in 875, also some of the old streets and houses. 74 7 
Bill at the George Inn, two days, . . . 9 17 

Sept. 7. — Take a carriage and drive to Eaton 
Hall, the Marquis of Westminster, a short dis- 
tance from Chester ; the place very grand and 
stately. A very fine specimen of Araucaria, 
imbricata here. Back to Chester to lunch, 
after which drive 2 miles or so, to Hoole 
House, Mrs. Hamilton's, formerly Lady Brough- 
ton's, famous for its rock-work for over 30 years ; 
a little lawn, of less than an acre, surrounded 
by a rockery over 40 feet high; planted with 
clipped yews, Araucarias, etc. ; 28 circular 
beds of raised baskets on the lawn. The whole 
kept in most exquisite order. Cab, 18s. ; fees, 3s., 1 1 

Sept. 8. — Sunday; to the cathedral in the 
morning, and to St. John's Church in the 
afternoon — the oldest in Chester, founded in 
689 ; after service, round the walls and through 
the old arcades. Bill at Chester, . . . 8' 17" 

Sept. 9. — Leave Chester by rail for Liverpool 

at 9 (the Adelphi) ; fare, 12 

where, taking carriage, drive 8 miles to Knows- 
ley, Earl of Derby's, first getting a pass at 
your banker's, which will occupy two to three 
hours to see ; the stables being especially fine, 
a quadrangle of 200 feet square, enclosing a 
paved yard ; in the centre a place for washing 
carriages ; beyond, a circle in straw for exer- 
cising horses, each pair of horses being kept in 

boxes, in a separate stable ; 30 pairs, the best 94 14 
2 13 



LIVERPOOL.] ENGLAND. [the adelphi. 

costing 800 guineas ; 35 grooms, 6 coachmen. £ s. 
The gardens contain 9 acres ; require, with the 94 14 
ornamental grounds, 35 men and 5 women. 
The park is 12 miles in circumference, and the 
deer-park 14 miles, the latter containing 3,000 
deer. There are 25 lodges and gates, and 50 
other cottages and houses. On the drive back 
to Liverpool, see Botanic Garden. . 

Sept. 10. — Walk or drive through the town, 
seeing the docks, Exchange, and the park at 
Birkenhead, 

Sept. 11. — Leave Liverpool (bill), . 7 10 

at 9, by train, reaching Boness, on Lake Win- 
dermere, at 12.45. (The Queen's.) After lunch 
take steamer at 2.30 and make the entire cir- 
cumference of the lake, 11 miles long. The 
portion about Ambleside and the Little Eiver 
at the other end being particularly beautiful. 
Fare, Liverpool to Boness, . . . .36 

Sept. 12. — By carriage 12 miles to Levens 
Hall, near Milnthrop, an old Elizabethan man- 
sion, a part built in the eleventh century ; the 
furniture, hangings, etc., all belonging to this 
period ; a fine old servants' hall in oak, with 
an immense fireplace, six to eight feet wide, 
and 1582 over it ; with long tables and 
benches round the sides for the servants' meals. 
Above this, a baronial hall panelled in oak, 
heavily carved and hung in leather, with ex- 
quisitely-emblazoned windows, square bays, in 
small diamond and hexagon patterns, set in 

lead; an oak floor with a square of Turkey carpet 105 10 
14 



boness.] ENGLAND, [the queen's. 

in the centre. Armor, boar-spears, and saddles, £ s. 

etc., about the room. This opened by three 105 10 

descending steps into the drawing-room, so 

beautifully carved in wood that, at present 

prices of labor, it is estimated the same work 

would cost £3,000. This also hung in gilded 

and embossed leather, and from which opened 

several quaint and curious rooms similarly 

treated and hung. In some were concealed 

doors, behind the arras leading by dim and 

mysterious corridors to obscure chambers. The 

gardens equally wonderful, seven acres being 

devoted to topiary work, most of it planted 

and first clipped by Beaumont, gardener to 

James I., and generally of yew and box, and 

some holly, from twelve to thirty feet high. 

There are also pleached alleys, as described by 

Shakespeare, divided by beech-hedges thirteen 

feet high, and the arches twenty. The grass 

walks or alleys laid down 250 years ago, on 

slate beds eight inches below the surface, and 

perfectly level, like a billiard-table, used for 

bowling-greens. Back to Boness to dinner, . 

Sept. 13. — Leave Boness in posting-carriage 

at 9, passing up the lake by Ellery, where 

Wilson, and afterward Colonel Hamilton, author 

of " Cyril Thornton," lived, by Bydal Lake and 

Eydal Mount (Wordsworth's house), Grassmere, 

Eaise Gap, Therlmere Lake, Legerthrait to 

Keswick, 23 miles. After lunch, drive with 

another carriage round Derwentwater, by Bar 

row House and Barrow Falls, the Bowder 105 10 
15 



Keswick.] ENGLAND. [royal oak. 

Stone, Lowdore Falls, Korthrait, Setollers. £ s. 
About three hours' drive — if time, extend drive 105 10 
three hours longer to Honister Pass, Gates, 
Grath, Buttermere, Crumlock Lake, and Yale of 
Newland, back to Keswick to dine and sleep, . 

Sept. 14.— Walk to Greta Hall (Southey's 
residence), and leaving Keswick at 10. In 
carriage drive past the head of St. John's Vale, 
Threlkeld, Moor End, Mell Fell, Matterdale, 
with a splendid yew, Docray, Gow-Barrow 
park, very grand, with fine views of Ulswater, 
Lyulph's Tower, with a quaint old dining-room, 
in oak, Ara-force Fall, Patterdale, where dine 
at Brownrigg's, an excellent inn. At 4, start- 
ing again by Brother's Lake, over the Kirk- 
stone Pass, where is the highest inhabited house 
in England, 1,470 feet above the lake. Beach 
Boness by Troutbeck, and Crook's house to tea. 
Bill at Keswick, and Patterdale, . . .44 

Nothing can well be finer than these lakes, 
mountains, and drives, except those at Kil- 
larney, which are grander, though not as soft 
and beautiful. In Patterdale churchyard is a 
yew perhaps a 1,000 years old, and 18 feet in 
circumference, 

Sept. 15. — Leave Boness at 5f for Penrith ; 
after waiting one and a half hours for a con- 
nection at Oxenham, reach Penrith (The 
Crown) at 9. Bill at Boness, £13 14; fare to 
Penrith, £1 15s., 15 9 

Sept. 16. — Taking posting-carriage, drive to 

Brougham Hall, Lord Brougham's, and also to 125 3 
16 



EDINBURGH.] SCOTLAND. ["WINDSOR HOTEL. 

Lowther Castle, the latter very magnificent, £ s. 
with a fine collection of pictures, especially 125 3 
Hogarth's, and a splendid park of 600 acres. 
Leaving Penrith at 1.23 by rail, reach Edin- 
burgh at 5.45. "Windsor Hotel, in Moray 
Place. Expenses at Penrith, and to Edin- 
burgh, 4 10 

Sept. 18. — Take a carriage-drive through 
Princes and George Streets, to the Castle, 
Grassmarket, Cannongate, St. Giles, Parliament 
House and Square, John Knox's House, and 
Holyrood Palace, seeing Queen Mary's apart- 
ment and the scene of Rizzio's murder. Back 
along the Queen's drive, by Salisbury Crags and 
Arthur's seat, Dean Bridge, Heriot's Hospital, 
the Cowgate, very extraordinary for the dense- 
ness of its population, carriage, . . . 15 

Sept. 19. — Leave Edinburgh at 9.40, by North 
British Rail for Melrose, 37 miles, where, taking 
cab, drive three miles to Abbotsford, see house 
and gardens, a wall of yew, thirteen years 
planted, with medallions set in, being especially 
fine. Back to Melrose to lunch, afterward to 
the Abbey (close to the inn), founded in 
1136 ; and by fly four miles to Dryburgh Ab- 
bey, founded in 1150, with a yew of the same 
age. Return to Edinburgh by rail at 5.30. 
Fare to Melrose and back, £2 10s ; fees, 3s. ; 
lunch, 4s., 2 17 

Sept. 20. — Leave Edinburgh at 1.20 by train, 

reaching Stirling at 2.15 ; visit the castle with 

one of the finest views. Take another train at 132 5 
11 



Glasgow.] SCOTLAND. [the george. 

5.25, go on to Callender at 6, to dine and sleep £ s. 
(The Dreadnought). Bill at Edinburgh, three 132 5 
days, £7 15s. ; fare to Callender, £1 5s., . 9 

Sept. 21. — Leave Callender in posting-car- 
riage at 9, reaching the inn at the Trossachs at 
11. Walk over the mountain to the celebrated 
pass of Aberfoil, to Bailie Mcol Jarvie Inn, the 
Clachan of Aberfoil, and back to the Trossachs 
to dine and sleep. Bill at Callender, . 2 15 

Sept. 22. — Leave the Trossachs at 9.30, in 
carriage for Loch Katrine, taking steamer at 
11 ; sail down the lake, passing Ellen's Isle and 
the " Silver Strand," reaching the upper end 
of the lake at 12.30 ; take a carriage, and drive 
five miles through a narrow pass to In- 
versnaid, where lunch, and on by boat at 2 ; 
down Loch Lomond, reaching Ballock at end 
of lake at 15 minutes to 4 ; hence by rail to 
Glasgow at 5.10. (George Hotel.) Bill at 
Trossachs, £3 4s. Fare on Loch Katrine, 10s. 
Lomond, 10s., 4 4 

Sept. 23. — Sunday to the Cathedral, after 
which to the University, very gloomy ; and to 
the park, 

Sept. 24. — About the town, and at 1.30 by 
rail 9 miles to Hamilton Palace, the Duke of 
Hamilton's, grandson of Beckford, the author 
of " Vateck ; " the Palace most stately and mag- 
nificent, the front being a specimen of an en- 
riched Corinthian order, with a projecting 
pillared portico, after the style of the Temple 



of Jupiter Stator at Eome, 264 feet in length, 149 
18 



banavie.) SCOTLAND. [lochiel abms. 

and 60 in height. In the mausoleum a constant £ s. 
fire day and night is kept up. The avenue here 149 4 
is particularly fine. Taking a carriage, drive to 
Barncluith, with clipped terrace gardens in 
the Dutch style, planted in 1679, on quaint 
stone battlements, also Cadzow Forest, with 
splendid oaks, 35 to 36 feet in circumference, 
and having some 60 to 80 of the Scottish wild- 
oxen yet left. Back to Glasgow, to dine and 
sleep. Bill at Glasgow, 4 days, £10 lis. ; cab 
and rail, £1 4s., . . . . . 12 15 

Sept. 25. — Leave Glasgow at 7 o'clock a. m., 
in steamer, reaching Greenock at 9, where the 
beauties of the Clyde begin to appear, passing 
Dumbarton and its castle, Dunoon, Rothesay, 
and through the Kyle of Bute, a charming 
strait through the islands, and filled with fish- 
ing-smacks, for the Loch Fine herrings, which 
are very celebrated. Arrive at Ardescraig at 
2, where change to a boat on the Crinan 
Canal ; after a beautiful sail of 9 miles, again 
change to another steamer, where, dining, 
pass through the Dorishtmore, or Great Gate 
between the chain of islands Jura, Isla, Scarba, 
and the Mull, Iona and Staffa at a distance, 
reach Oban, beautifully situated in a circular 
bay, at 7 p. m. Here, if wishing to visit Staffa, 
sleep ; otherwise proceed in steamer, reaching 
Banavie at 10 p. m. Passage to Inverness, . 6 10 

Sept. 26. — Rise early, to see the effect of the 

sun on Ben Nevis, 4,428 feet high, immediately 

in front of the inn; walk 2 miles to Inverlochy 168 9 
19 



invebness.] SCOTLAND. [Caledonian hotel. 

Castle, scene of the battle between Argyll and £ s. 
Montrose in 1645. Breakfast at 7; leave in 168 9 
steamer on the canal at 8, until you reach 
Loch Lochy, 10 miles, passing the ancient cas- 
tle of the Camerons, also the burial-place of 
the Lochiels, then through a second canal to 
Loch Oich, 3 miles long, passing Achnacarry, 
belonging to the Lochiel, and Invergarry Cas- 
tle, as well as the monument erected by Colo- 
nel McDonald, of Glengarry, to the seven heads 
of his seven cousins, which he cut off for 
murdering the two sons of the chief of the 
clan — McDonald himself being the original of 
the Fergus Mclvor, of Sir Walter Scott's 
" Waverley ; " thence by another canal to Loch 
Ness, 24 miles long, scenery fine, though not 
so grand as yesterday's. To Foyer's, where an 
hour to see the falls, very picturesque, by 
Urquart Castle, a splendid ruin in a magnificent 
position, with an arrangement for pouring 
molten lead on its assailants, and a charming 
old Scotch residence, Aldowrie House, where 
Sir James Mcintosh was born ; reach Inver- 
ness (the Caledonian Hotel) at 5 p. m. Bill 
at Banavie, and lunch, 1 12 

See Macbeth's Castle, splendidly situated on 
an eminence overlooking the town and river. 

Sept. 27.— Leave Inverness at 10.18, passing 
Culloden, where the battle was fought ; Caw- 
dor Castle, once belonging to the Thane of 

Cawdor of Macbeth, and now to the Earl of 

Cawdor, Longmuir, the supposed blasted heath, 170 1 
20 



ABERFELDIE.] SCOTLAND. [BREADALBANE ARMS. 

where Macbeth and Banquo met the weird sis- £ s. 
ters, Birnam wood, etc., to Blair Castle, where 170 1 
leave the train. After lunch visit the grounds. 
The walks and drives of this estate are said to 
extend 50 miles ; the larch-plantations cover 
11,000 acres, and number of trees planted, 
27,000,000. Glen Tilt, belonging to the duke, 
alone contains 100,000 acres, and 10,000 head of 
red deer, 5,000 acres being preserved for grouse, 
20,000 for deer, and 30,000 for deer-stalking. 
There still remain 8 or 10 of the original 
larch from which all Scotland, England, Ire- 
land, and America, were planted, one of the 
largest measuring 16£ feet in circumference, 
with a head and branches as spreading as a 
cedar of Lebanon. Taking carriage at the inn, 
drive or walk through the celebrated pass of 
Killiecrankie to Ballinling, passing Grand Tul- 
ly, an old Scotch castle, said to be the original 
of the Tully Veolan of " Waverley," and Glen- 
quoich, the home of Fergus Mclvor ; and reach- 
ing Aberfeldie (Breadalbane Arms) to dine and 
sleep. Bill at Inverness, £2 Is. ; to Aberfeldie, 

£4 10s., 6 11 

Lunch and carriage at Blair, . . . .15 

Sept. 28. — Sunday at Aberfeldie. 

Sept. 29. — Walk to the falls of Moness and 
Birks of Aberfeldie, a beautiful ravine and fall 
celebrated by Burns, and after lunch walk to 
Castle Menzies, a quaint old Scotch castle 

with pepper-pot towers on the angles and most 

extraordinary beeches and planes, forming com- 177 17 
21 



EDINBURGH.] SCOTLAND. [royal hotel. 

plete arbors ; the collection of new evergreens £ s. 
very complete here, . . . . . 177 17 

Sept. 30. — In morning, drive or walk to 
Grand Tully Castle, the residence of Sir Wil- 
liam Stewart, the actual original of Sir Walter 
Scott's Tully Yeolan, with secret passages and 
communications through the walls. After 
lunch drive 5 miles to Taymouth Castle, the 
magnificent residence of the Marquis of Bread- 
albane, a splendid castle 800 feet front, in a 
park, consisting of a valley between two 
ranges of mountains, five miles long by three 
broad, with superb groups and masses of trees, 
one beech in particular measuring 43 feet in 
circumference four feet from the ground, said 
to be the largest in Scotland; the estate 
being 120 miles long by 3 to 15 broad. At the 
end of the park is Loch Taymouth, 16 miles 
long. Bill and expenses at Abergeldie, . . 5 12 

Oct. 1. — Leave Abergeldie in train at 8.15, 
reaching Perth at 11, and Edinburgh via Ster- 
ling at 1. From Perth you may branch off 
to Aberdeen and Balmoral. 

Oct. 2. — Leave Edinburgh (Royal Hotel), at 
10 in fly, for Dalkeith Palace, seat of the Duke 
of Buccleuch ; see palace, filled with splendid 
pictures of the family. The grounds are very 
fine, and the stables especially so, containing 
some 90 horses when the family is at home, 
30 of which are valuable hunters, costing 200 

to 300 guineas each. In the palace is the state 

bed, used in 1633 by Charles I., in 1822 by 183 9 
22 



EDINBURGH.] SCOTLAND. [royal hotel, 

George IV., and in 1842 by Queen Victoria. £ *. 
From here drive to Koslyn Castle and Ros- 183 9 
lyn Chapel, the first containing subterranean 
passages in the rocks, where Bruce lived in 
concealment. A beautiful walk conducts to 
the chapel, built 595 years ago, and by far the 
most exquisite in style and carvings in Scot- 
land, perhaps in England. Back by 5 o'clock. 
Cab, £1 ; fees, 5s. ; lunch, 5s., . . 1 10 

See Botanic Garden, with very fine col- 
lection of plants. 

Oct. 5. — Leave Edinburgh at 10.15 by North 
British Rail, passing near the sea and some 
splendid views, through and over Newcastle 
to Durham by 2.20; here stop. After lunch at 
the Three Tuns, visit the Cathedral, founded 
in 1072, 365 feet long and 92 feet high, a mag- 
nificent building ; afterward to the Castle, a 
splendid old palace, black with age, said to 
have been built by William the Conqueror. 
Bill at Edinburgh, three and a half days, £9 2s. ; 
fare to Durham, £5 10s., . . . . 14 12 

Oct. 6. — Leave Durham at 11, reaching 
Ripon at 2.20 (The Unicorn), where taking a 
carriage, drive to Studley Royal, Earl de Grey, 
and Ripon, containing in the park the mag- 
nificent ruins of Fountain Abbey. Here are 
some Norway spruce 130 feet high. The Ab- 
bey originally covered 12 acres, and much is 
well preserved, though founded 1,000 years 
ago. Here also are some yews 1,400 years old, 

199 11 
23 



yobk.] ENGLAND. [the yoek house. 

27 feet in circumference, which sheltered the £ s. 
monks when building the abbey. Bill at Dur- 199 11 
ham, £1 10s. ; fare to Eipon, £2 10s., . .40 

Oct. 7. — Walk to Cathedral, being restored, 
but a fine building, 320 feet long. Leave Ripon 
by train at 10.30, reach Harrogate at 11.30, and 
York at 1.30 (The York House). See the 
Cathedral, by many thought the finest in Eng- 
land, 500 odd feet long, by nearly 100 feet 
high, founded in the fourteenth and fifteenth 
centuries; the great east window, 80 feet 
high, was painted by a man who under- 
took to do it in three years, at six shillings 
a week. Bill at Ripon, £2 13s. ; fare to York, 
£1 10s., 4 3 

Oct. 8. — At York, seeing the Cathedral and 
old houses ; at 2 drive to Hesslington Hall, an 
old Elizabethan mansion of red brick, with 
old clipped yew-trees, 200 years old. Bill at 
York, 4 days, £10 2s. ; fare to Scarborough, 
£1 5s., 11 7 

Oct. 9. — Leave York at 9.30 in train, send- 
ing luggage to Scarborough ; stop at Castle 
Howard station, take 'bus to the Castle — Earl 
of Carlisle. The house very fine, built by Sir 
John Yanbrugh, and the park, with four splen- 
did avenues meeting in the centre, planted by 
the third earl, 150 years ago. The pictures 
and statues, both within and without the 
house, are superb. On by a later train 

to Scarborough (The Crown), to dine and 

sleep 219 1 

24 



SCARBOROUGH.] ENGLAND. [the crown. 

Oct. 10. — Walk on the esplanade and about £ s. 
the town. 219 1 

Oct. 11. — Sunday. 

Oct. 12.— Bill at Scarborough, 6 days, . 21 6 

Oct. 13. — Leave Scarborough at 2.30, reach- 
ing Leeds at 5.30 (Bull and Mouth, very bad) ; 
see the town (Station Hotel best), . 

Oct. 14.— By train at 9.30, 17 miles to Keigh- 
ley, then 4 miles by carriage to Haworth, a 
straggling village with one long street, to the 
Parsonage House, where lived the Brontes, 
Charlotte, Anne, and Maria, authoresses of 
"Jane Eyre," " Villette," "Wuthering Heights," 
etc. ; here old Mr. Bronte, the incumbent of 
Haworth, lived 41 years on £150 a year, and 
died at 85, having outlived all his children. 
Expenses, ... .... 1 5 

Back to Leeds to dine and sleep. 

Oct. 15. — Leave Leeds at 10.30 in train, 
reaching Kotherham at 11.30; taking a fly, 
drive 4 miles to Wentworth House, Earl Fitz- 
william, the most magnificent house, perhaps, 
in England, 906 feet front; the state apart- 
ments very grand, the dining-room very superb, 
being 50 feet square, the ground hall 50 by 75, 
and 30 feet high ; all the three drawing-rooms 
very ornate and superbly gilded, with charm- 
ing pictures. See the chamber and dressing- 
room of Lord Strafford, who was beheaded. 
The stables even finer than Knowsley (Earl of 

Derby's) ; the gardens are very stately. From 

ttotherham to Sheffield, 5 miles in fly, then by 241 12 
3 25 



worksop.] ENGLAND. [lion inn, 

train, half an hour to Worksop (The Lion). £ s. 
Bill at Leeds, £3 12s.; fly to Wentworth, 241 12 

14s., 4 6 

Oct. 16. — Drive in carriage 4 miles, to Clum- 
ber Park, seat of the Duke of Newcastle, beau- 
tifully situated with its Italian gardens, ex- 
tending over a lake filled with wild-fowl. A 
mile or so farther to Thoresby, Earl Manvers, 
with a fine effect of avenue, passing through 
a part of the park or chase called Bithagne and 
Birkland, being the oldest portions of Sher- 
wood Forest ; huge oaks, 1,000 years old, aver- 
aging 30 to 40 feet in circumference, with a 
thick undergrowth of fern, through and amidst 
which are numerous deer; nothing in Eng- 
land is perhaps grander or wilder than this 
forest of nearly 15,000 acres, with innumerable 
sylvan glades. Passing through Clipstone Park, 
where King John had a palace, lunch at the lit- 
tle inn famous for its home-brewed. Returning 
from here, drive through a part of Welbeck Park, 
Duke of Portland, seeing the abbey at a dis- 
tance, and the ornamental water, unfinished in 
1868, of over 200 acres. The park contains 
2,083 acres, and some remarkable oaks, of 
which the most celebrated are the Two Porters, 
one being 100 feet high and 40 in circum- 
ference, the other 90 by 36 ; the Seven Sisters, 
88 feet high, circumference 80 feet. The Green- 
dale oak in 1724 had an opening large enough 

to allow a carriage or three horsemen abreast 

to pass through, the circumference above the 245 18 
26 



woeksop.] ENGLAND. [the lion. 

arch, 35 feet 3 inches, height of the arch, 10 £ s. 
feet, width 6 feet 3 inches, supposed to be 245 18 
1,000 years old. Some oaks which have been 
cut down were found to be 1,200 years old. 
From Welbeck to Worksop Manor, Lord Fo- 
ley's, and back to Worksop to dine and sleep. 
Bill at Worksop, £5 15s. ; fare to Lincoln, 
£1 4s. ; to Boston, £1 4s. ; cab, 10s., . . 8 13 

Oct. 17. — Leave Worksop by train at 9.20, 
reaching Lincoln at 11 ; take cab and drive to 
the Cathedral, finer even than York, tower 
266 feet high, length only six inches less than 
York. Leave Lincoln at 3.30, reaching Boston 
(The Peacock), at 5, 

Oct. 19. — Ascend the tower of St. Botolph's, 
with a magnificent view of Lincolnshire. Leave 
Boston by train at 10, reach Grantham at 11.30 ; 
taking a fly, drive 8 miles to Belvoir Castle, 
the Duke of Rutland's superb estate, with 
magnificent rooms and pictures ; from here at 
4, by train to Nottingham, 17 miles, George 
IV. inn. Bill at Boston, £4 10s.; fare toi 
Gfantham, £1 Is. ; fly to Belvoir Castle and 
back, £1 10s. ; to Nottingham, 10s., . . 7 11 

Oct. 20. — Leave Nottingham at 10, in car- 
riage with post-horses, 11 miles to Newstead 
Abbey (Lord Byron's), passing Westwell Hall, 
Duke of St. Alban's. Newstead, very interest- 
ing, on a lake, the older parts of the abbey 
beautifully preserved, and the Italian gardens 

exquisite. The monument (tomb) to the mem 

ory of the poet's dog Boatswain being very 262 2 
27 



NOTTINGHAM.] ENGLAND. [GEORGE IV. 

conspicuous ; from ISTewstead 3 miles farther £ s. 
to Annesley Hall, where Mary Chaworth, By- 262 2 
ron's first love lived ; a beautiful park of 800 
acres, an old Elizabethan house, with heavy 
mullioned windows and court-yards; a most 
charming Italian garden, heavy stone balus- 
trades and pilasters, with large stone balls on 
top ; an old church immediately adjoining and 
in connection with the house, 900 years old. 
Mary Chaworth's flower-garden exists just as 
it did in her day, and a little oaken door in the 
garden wall still shows the marks of Lord By- 
ron's balls, who used it as a target. From here 
2 miles to Hucknel, where, in the old church, 
built in 1100, is a mural tablet, with the simple 
inscription, "George Gordon, Lord Byron of 
Rochdale, Author of Childe Harold's pilgrim- 
age, born in London, 1786, died at Missolonghi, 
1824." From here to Wollaton Hall, Lord 
Middleton's, a superb, ornate, though gloomy 
house, with a splendid avenue and numerous 
deer. Back to Nottingham by 5, where, taking 
the train, reach Derby (The Royal) at 6. Bill 
at Nottingham, £2 7s. ; carriage to Newstead, 
£1 15s.; lunch, 6s.; fare to Derby, 10s., . 4 18 

Oct. 21.— Leave Derby by train at 10.30, for 
Borrowwash, 5 miles ; walk or drive one mile 
to Elvaston Castle, Earl of Harrington, the 
most wonderful place in England, and probably 
in the world, for its topiary work, as well as 

collection of evergreens. Here are picea pins 

apos 30 feet high, abies menzesii and douglasi 267 00 



eerby.] ENGLAND. [the royal. 

35 feet, hemlocks much finer than these in £ s. 
America. The grand entrance through the 267 00 
golden gates, opened only on state occasions, 
is bordered on one side by a variegated holly- 
hedge, with occasional standards of Irish yew, 
and on the other side (being divided by great 
masses of golden yew in a setting of common 
yew) is a line of golden and Irish yews, backed 
by a row of pinus nobilis ; at end of each grass 
avenue is a superb golden yew, 20 feet high 
and as broad ; from this you pass into three 
distinct and separate gardens, each more ex- 
traordinary than the other in size, and the 
figures of the topiary work. Entire cottages 
cut out of yew, yew-arbors 20 feet high, having 
a base 30 feet square, with a succession of 
steps ; the top surmounted by two peacocks, 
6 feet long and 3 or more feet high, the head 
and figures closely cut, while the tails, in gold- 
en yew, are allowed to remain undipped and 
feathery. One very extraordinary house in 
yew, with several gables, is surmounted by 
two birds, one in a nest, the other attempting 
to fly out, each larger than the largest eagle. 
There are also perfectly green cones of English 
yew, 40 feet high, with golden heads (caps of 
golden yew), these standing in a double base 
or platform of English yew, 25 to 30 feet 
square, and 12 to 15 inches high, perfectly 
smooth and flat, as if made of slate; there are 

also long alleys of smooth turf bordered by 

alternate Irish and golden yews, the latter tied 267 00 
29 



DERBY.] ENGLAND. [the royal. 

close in by wires to keep them pyramidal, and £ s. 
surmounted by golden crowns ; other avenues 267 00 
of Irish junipers and golden cypress. In one 
of the gardens (each divided from the other by 
clipped yew-hedges 20 feet high, with occa- 
sional arches) are groups of Chinese barrels, 
cut out of juniper ; in this garden a fine effect 
is produced by a large circle, 100 feet in diam- 
eter, made of large triangles of alternating 
golden and green yews, dovetailing into each 
other, and kept down (6 inches high) so as to 
produce a brilliant parterre. One of the most 
effective things, however, is the Yandyk "Walk, 
a covered, irregular walk through an arbor, 
thickened at the bottom by box, and close over 
the head, the light being admitted by occa- 
sional loop-holes. The ornamental water is 
also most charmingly managed ; a lake of ap- 
parently endless extent, with the margin beau- 
tifully broken by occasional borders of smooth 
lawn, backed by artificial rock-work, and plant- 
ed with golden and English yews, deodars, and 
araucarias ; then again points of rough, ragged 
rock to the waters edge, in one case closely 
resembling a ruined castle, covered with moss 
and ivy, and the effect increased by broken 
mullioned window-bars set against one of the 
openings. At one end of the lake, after pass- 
ing through a dense yew-walk, you come sud- 
denly upon a large, round hole, 8 feet in diam- 
eter, in the rockery ; through this you see the 

whole extent of the lake, with all its different 267 00 
30 



derby.] ENGLAND. [the royal. 

points and islands, the softer parts in lawn with £ s. 
an occasional weeping birch or willow ; the 267 00 
rougher with here and there a cedar of Lebanon 
or araucaria amidst the crags. Another beau- 
tiful effect is produced by a sudden vista through 
a cavern across the lake, to another vista 
through a cave, in which stands a mossy stone 
cross wreathed in silver ivy, duplicated in the 
lake by its reflection; and beyond this the 
vista is continued three miles through a dark 
fir-wood, until it terminates in Spondon Church 
spire. Back to Derby to dine and sleep, seeing 
also the Arboretum. Bill at Derby, £9 17s. ; 
to Matlock, £1 10s., 11 7 

Oct. 23. — Leave Derby by train at 9, reach- 
ing Matlock Bath at 9.40 (Temple Inn). Walk 
through the Cumberland Cavern, the largest 
in Derbyshire ; after lunch, drive to Willersley 
Hall, the house of the original Arkwright ; see 
the mill where the spinning-jenny was invented 
and first used ; thence to Lea Hurst, the resi- 
dence of Florence Nightingale, a pretty stone 
cottage in an estate of 5,000 acres. On still 
farther to Wingfield Manor, a grand old ruin 
of the time of Henry IV. Here Mary Queen 
of Scots was a prisoner nine years. Back to 
Matlock to dinner. 

Oct. 23 and 24.— At Matlock. 

Oct. 25. — Leave the hotel at 9.30 in carriage, 
reaching Hadden Hall, the Duke of Rutland's, 

8 miles, at 11, one of the most interesting old 

places in England, built in the eleventh century, 278 7 
81 



MATLOCK.] ENGLAND. [temple inn. 

and the original of Mrs. Radcliffe's " Mysteries £ s. 
of Udolpho." From here by Bakewell, famous 278 7 
for its sheep ; to Chatsworth, 2 miles, lunching 
at the Edensor Inn at the gate, after which see 
the house, gardens, great conservatory, etc., 
occupying about two hours, the wood-carvings 
in the house, by Gibbons, being very cele- 
brated. Thirty men are kept in the ornamental 
grounds and 25 in the kitchen garden. Back 
to Matlock to dine. Lunch, 13s. ; fees and 
tolls, 8s., 11 

Oct. 26. — Leave Matlock by train at 9.45, 
reaching Buxton at 10.15; taking carriage, 
drive 14 miles through the bleakest and high- 
est moors to Macclesfield to lunch, leaving 
Macclesfield at 3.30 in train, reach Oongleton 
(Lion and Swan, very quaint) at 4 ; see the 
town. Bill at Matlock, and carriage to Chats- 
worth, 8 8 

Fare to Buxton, 17s. ; carriage to Macclesfield 
and lunch, . 2 16 

The Buxton moors, belonging to the Duke of 
Devonshire, are rented for shooting, at £12 
the fortnight for each gun. Twelve gentlemen 
hire these moors for two weeks at this rate, 
and generally average 10 to 12 brace of grouse 
a gun each day. Each gun, therefore, pays a 
guinea a day, and shoots, or is supposed to, 10 
pair of grouse. 

Oct. 27. — Leave Congleton by train at 10, 

reaching North Rode at 10.20, waiting three 

quarters of an hour and taking another train, 290 12 
32 



CONGLETON.] EXGLAND. [lion and swan. 

reach Alton Towers, Earl of Shrewsbury's, at £ *. 
llf, the most ornate and Italian-looking- place 290 12 
in England, a succession of beautiful terraces, 
with vases, statues, fountains, and flowers, su- 
perb trees both in variety and growth; the 
cedars of Lebanon on the slopes down to the 
lake are especially fine. Fare to and fro, . 1 15 

Oct. 28. — Leave Congleton in a carriage at 
9.30, for Biddulph Grange, Mr. Bateinan's, 4 
miles, the most extraordinary place in England 
of its size ; a Wellingtonia avenue, a beautiful 
pinetum, a rock ; a Dutch, an Italian, and a 
stump garden — each concealed from the other ; 
a wonderful Chinese garden, which you enter 
through a cave over a Chinese bridge, the garden 
being planted with Chinese plants and trees, 
and adorned with pagodas, monsters, idols, and 
other features of that country. There are 23 
acres only of ornamental ground, and 15 men 
allowed to keep them up. Back to Cougleton 
to lunch, after which} leaving Congleton at 
4.30, reach Stoke-on-Trent at 4.50. Bill at 
Congleton, £3 lis. ; fare to Stoke, 8s., . .3 19 

Oct. 29. — Drive 3 miles from Stoke to Tren- 
tham, Duke of Sutherland's, by many esteemed 
the finest place in England, a beautiful park 
with majestic trees and fine hanging woods ; 
the most exquisite pleasure-grounds, with grand 
masses of rhododendrons, azalias, mahonias, 
gaultherias, etc, with large, open glades of 

grass, down to a beautiful lake, one mile long ; ■ 

a succession of majestic terrace-gardens, with 296 
33 



STOKE-ON-TRENT.] ENGLAND. [STATION HOTEL. 

Italian balustrades to the water's edge ; nothing £ *. 

can be finer than the training of the pear-trees, 296 

being in cup-form, as well as over umbrella 

trellises; the grape and peach houses, only 

4 feet wide by 12 high, the front glass being 

as high as the back wall, thus having two sets 

of plants. Back to Stoke to lunch ; fly, 10s. ; 

bill at Stoke and fare to Stafford, £3 10s. 4 

Leaving Stoke at 3, reach Stafford (The Vine), 

to dine and sleep. 

Oct. 31. — Taking a carriage, drive to Tixall 
Hall, Sir T. Clifford's ; Shugborough, Earl of 
Lichfield's ; Ingestrie, Earl of Shrewsbury's, and 
Sandon, Earl of Harrowby's, 16 miles, fare, . 14 

Of these places, Ingestrie was the finest 
house about the period of the Tudors, with a 
quantity of windows in bays and bows ; the 
park is very fine, being in large, umbrageous 
masses, a superb beech avenue, 200 years old 
and a mile long, some fine cedars of Lebanon 
and Douglas firs, in the ornamental grounds. 
The next best place being Sandon, where the 
park is very undulating, and beautifully 
clothed in splendid trees, especially beech. 
Back to Stafford to dinner. Fly, ... 14 

Nov. 1.— Leave Stafford by rail at 11.15, 
reaching Rugby at 11.45. Lunch at the Talbot 
Arms, where the celebrated poisoning of Cook 
and others took place by Palmer, in 1855, 
Palmer's house being immediately opposite. 

After lunch, drive in fly to Blithfield, Lord 

Bagot's splendid old park and house, said— a 301 14 
34 



STAFFORD.] ENGLAND. [the vine. 

portion of it — to have been built in the time of £ s. 
William the Conqueror. From here, 4 miles to 301 14 
Bishton, Lady Olivia Sparrow's, Woolsey Hall, 
Sir Charles Woolsey's, which has been in the 
same family 700 years, containing a fine oaken 
drawing-room and carved staircase ; from here 
to Hagley Hall, Lady de la Zouch's, a picturesque 
old house. Fare to and from Stafford and fly, 
£1 Is. ; lunch at Rugby, 15s. Back to Staf- 
ford to dine, 116 

Nov. 2. — Leave Stafford at 11.15, reaching 
Lichfield at 12, remaining two hours for the 
cathedral, one of the most ornate in England, 
the pulpit and screen being of elaborately orna- 
mented and twisted brass, with precious stones ; 
the altar, most exquisite in alabaster, inlaid 
with precious stones ; the monuments — Chan- 
trey's cherubs and Hodson's tomb — very 
superb. Leaving Lichfield by train at 3, reach 
Rugby (George I Y.) at 4, seeing the school and 
play-ground, famous in " Tom Brown," close by 
the hotel. Lunch at Lichfield, 9s. ; fare to 
Lichfield 10s. ; Lichfield to Rugby, £1 12s., . 2 11 

Nov. 3. — Rugby school until 12, when by 
rail to Leamington (The Clarendon), in one 
hour ; lunch and see the town. Bill at Rugby, 
£1 12s. ; Rugby to Leamington, 12s., . .24 

Nov. 4. — Leave Leamington by rail for War- 
wick, 2 miles ; see Warwick Castle after lunch 
at the inH, drive in fly to Guy's Cliff, with a 

beautiful avenue of Scotch firs, 400 years old, 

best seen from the public road ; also, some 308 5 
35 



LEAMINGTON.] ENGLAND. [CLAKENDON. 

curious caves or recesses in the rocks; then 4 £ s. 
miles farther to Kenilworth Castle. Back to 308 5 
Leamington by fly to dine. Lunch and car- 
riage, 10 

Nov. 5. — Leave Leamington in carriage at 10, 
for Stratford, stopping at Warwick to see the 
Leicester Hospital, founded by Robert Dudley, 
Earl of Leicester, for a master and 12 old 
soldiers, they having each a parlor and bed- 
room, and £80 a year ; the building and fur- 
niture are completely of the period of this 
foundation, 1573. See the identical chair for 
visitors used by James I. when he was enter- 
tained here. Drive 8 miles farther to Stratford- 
on-Avon, seeing Shakespeare's house and the 
church where he was buried. Back to Leam- 
ington by Charlecote, still owned by the 
Lucy family, where Shakespeare was tried for 
stealing deer ; a fine old hall and grand park. 
Expenses, carriage and lunch, . . .20 

Nov. 6-10. — At Leamington; excurse to 
Coventry and back, and to Stoneleigh Abbey, 
Lord Leigh's, a fine combination of an ancient 
and stately modern house, a beautiful Italian 
garden, sloping to the river with steps to the 
water ; the park remarkable for its venerable 
trees, nearly as fine as Sherwood Forest ; near 
the greenhouse a very fine Taxodium semper- 
vire?is, also fine araucarias and Cryptomeria 
Japonica, 30 feet high, ..... 

Nov. 11. — Leave Leamington by train at 10, 



reaching Worcester, with three changes, at 1.50 311 



HEREFORD.] ENGLAND. [green dragon. 

(Star and Garter Inn) ; after lunch see cathe- £ s. 
dral, splendidly restored; here are the tombs 311 5 
of King John and Prince Arthur. Hard by the 
town the battle of Worcester was fought. Bill at 
Leamington, 6 days, £15; fare to Worcester, . 16 15 

Nov. 12. — Leave Worcester at 11.25 in train, 
reaching Malvern at 11.50. Taking fly, drive 
through the town to Malvern Wych, seeing a 
beautiful view, through a cutting in the rocks, 
of the two counties — Herefordshire on one side 
and Worcestershire on the other — from a 
height of 1,500 feet. From here to Madresfield 
Court, Earl of Beauchamp's, an interesting old 
place; the house with three gables, covered 
with ivy, surrounded by a moat filled with 
water ; the intervening lawn beautifully planted 
with choice evergreens. Taking train at 3, 
reach Hereford (The Green Dragon), to dine 
and sleep. Bill at Worcester, £2 16s. ; fare to 
Hereford, £1 8s., 4 4 

See cathedral, with fine screen. 

Nov. 13. — Leave Hereford at 9.40, passing 
Holm Lacey — a fine old Elizabethan mansion, 
where Pope wrote his "Man of Eoss" — to 
Boss ; where, taking a fly, drive to the church, 
where the "Man of Eoss" is buried; then to 
the ruins of Goodrich Castle, built in 600 — 
before the conquest. Afterward to Goodrich 
Court, Sir J. P. Merrick's, best imitation of 
an ancient castle in England, with furniture to 

correspond, and a splendid collection of armor. 

From here at 3, by train, to Cheltenham (the 332 4 
4 37 



CHELTENHAM.] ENGLAND. [THE PLOUGH. 

Plough), via Gloucester, at 4. The view from £ s. 
the inn at Boss very fine. Bill at Hereford, 332 4 
£1 10s. ; fare to Cheltenham, 15s. ; fly to 
Goodrich and back, £1 2s., . . . .3 7- 

Nov. 14. — Leave Cheltenham by train at 11 
for Gloucester, where, taking a fly, drive to 
Highnam Court, Mr. Gambier Parry's, cele- 
brated for its pinetum, perhaps the most com- 
plete in England, not excepting Dropmore. 
See Mr. Parry's church, built and adorned at 
his own expense, at a cost of £30,000, much of 
the painting and emblazoning being his own 
work. Back to Worcester, to the cathedral, 
built in 1047, containing the monuments of 
Edward II. and Robert of Normandy, son of 
the Conqueror ; the east window, 87 feet high ; 
the vault of the choir and the cloisters are con- 
sidered the most beautiful in England. Return 
to Cheltenham at 4.40. Expense, . . .12 

Nov. 15. — At 12, drive 2 miles, to Southam 
House, Earl of Ellenborough's, a charming, 
quaint old Elizabethan house, built in 1628. 
On the summer-house is a glass star instead of 
a vane, which, in the sun, produces a very 
pretty effect. Rest of the day, see the town. 

Nov. 16. — Leave Cheltenham at 11, reaching 
Bristol at 12.15, and, after half an hour's delay, 
Bath at 1.30 (York House). See the town, the 
park gardens, crescent, etc. Bill at Chelten- 
ham, £12 16s.; fare to Bath, £2 3s., . . 14 19 

Nov. 12. — Bath. Abbey Church, pump 

room, etc. 351 12 

38 



BATH.] ENGLAND. [YORK HOUSE. 

Nov. 13. — Leave Bath at 10, in carriage, for £ s. 
Badminton, Duke of Beaufort's, 16 miles; a 351 12 
splendid house and park, with avenue 3 miles 
long, from Worcester Lodge. The duke, who 
is the present Nimrod of England, hunts every 
day, rain or shine, through the season, keeping 
40 horses for this purpose. Back to Bath, hy 
Oodrington Hall, a fine old place. In the church 
at Badminton Lord Raglan, the English Com- 
mander-in-Chief in the Crimea, is buried. 
Here, also, is the monument to the Marchion- 
ess of Worcester, with its famous inscription, • 
considered the most complimentary ever com- 
posed : 

" Underneath this stone doth lie 
As much virtue as could die ; 
Which, when alive, did vigor give 
To as much beauty as could live." 

Carriage to Badminton and expenses, . 2 17 

Nov. 14. — Leave Bath at 10.30, by train, for 
Chippingham; then, by fly, 5 miles to Bowood, 
Marquis of Lansdowne's, a beautiful Italian 
palace and superb place, especially rich in ter- 
raced gardens ; a lake of 30 acres, with a fine 
pinetum, containing a Douglas fir 70-odd feet 
high. Five miles beyond Bowood is Lacock 
Abbey, a wonderful old place, said to be the 
best-preserved abbey "in residence" in England, 
founded in 1229, the cloisters, kitchen, and nuns' 

kitchen being very complete. Driving 3 miles 

farther, you come to Corsham House, Lord 354 9 
39 



exetee.] ENGLAND. [the uorAL. 

Methuen's, a splendid house, with extraordinary £ s. 
yew-hedges, 30 feet thick and as high; the 354 9 
park planted by the celebrated Brown and the 
lake made by Repton. Back to Chippingham, 
then by rail to Bath to dinner. Expenses, . 1 7 

Near Bath is Prior Park, where Fielding 
wrote "Tom Jones." 

Nov. 15. — Leave Bath in train at 1.25, reach- 
ing Exeter (Royal) at 2.25. Walk about the 
town, seeing the old houses and the cathedral. 
BiU at Bath, £15; Bath to Exeter, £4 4s., . 19 4 

Nov. J. 6. — Take a fly at 10, drive one mile to 
the celebrated nursery* of V eitch & Co., seeing 
the famous pinetum-walk, with Douglas firs, 
cedars of Lebanon, Cryptomerias, Taxodium, 
etc., 30 feet high; also splendid cypress, 
Goviana, and Hacrocarpa. Thence a mile in 
another direction, to the nursery and pinetum 
of Lucomb, Pince & Co., seeing, near the 
entrance, the celebrated Lucomb (evergreen) 
oak, the largest and finest in England, also the 
far-famed conifer rock-walk, of a quarter of a 
mile, between high, overhanging, artificial 
rocks, filled with every conceivable and known 
variety of evergreens, rock-plants, ferns, pam- 
pas-grass, Arundos, etc. Here is the first 
Wellingtonia planted in England, also the 
first Thuja gigantea, the one 25 x 30 feet, 
and the other about 12 feet high. This 
collection of evergreens is, perhaps, the finest 
in England. Near Exeter is Bicton, the 



celebrated place of Lady Rolle. Leaving 375 
40 



exeter.] ENGLAND. [the royal. 

Exeter by train at 2.30, reach Torquay (the £ s. 
Royal) at 3.10. Bill at Exeter, £2 10s.; fare 375 
to Torquay, £1 6s., 3 16 

Nov. 17. — Torquay for three weeks; one 
parlor and three fine chambers, with board for 
four persons in private apartment, £16 5s. a 
week— 1866-'67. 

Nov. 18. — At 10, taking a fly, drive to Babbi- 
comb, Anstey's Cove, Bishopthorp, "Watcomb, 
the seat of the late Mr. Brunell ; the grounds 
beautifully laid out on a hill-side, and the val- 
ley exquisitely arranged with the most orna- 
mental and rare trees and shrubs, even the 
cedar of Goa and Yucca alozfolia standing out 
all winter. 

Nov. 19. — After lunch, drive to Berry Pome- 
roy Castle, a fine old ruin, charmingly draped 
in ivy. 

Nov. 20. — Leave Torquay in train at 10.15 
for Dawlish, 12 miles ; then, by fly, 2 miles to 
Luscomb, beautiful house and grounds ; then 4 
miles to Mamhead. To an American, Mam- 
head is one of the most instructive places in 
England, as being sufficiently small and com- 
pact enough to be within the reach of an Amer- 
ican ownership. The ornamental grounds, 
only seven acres, were kept in exquisite order 
(in 1866) by two men. Here are the finest 
Abies morinda, probably, in the country, 60 
feet high, and very pendulous ; also a mass of 

rhododendrons, 25 feet high and 150 feet in 

circumference, the earliest already in bloom, 378 16 
41 



TORQUAY.] ENGLAND. [the royal. 

in November. Although the park is only 70 £ s. 
acres, yet the groups and masses are so beanti- 378 16 
fully and artistically disposed, and the ground 
so undulating, and with such distant views of 
the sea and the river Exe, that it looks as if it 
might contain a thousand acres. The old 
church, with its magnificent old yew-tree, is 
quite the finest in rural beauty in the south of 
England. Back to Torquay to dine. Expenses, 2 7 
Bill at Torquay, three weeks, and sundries, . 53 15 

Dec. 13. — Leave Torquay by train at 11, reach- 
ing Exeter at 12.30 and Salisbury at 4.15 
(White Hart). Walk to the cathedral. Tor- 
quay to Salisbury, 5 16 

Dec. 14. — After seeing cathedral and bishop's 
palace, with pretty gardens, take carriage at 11 
for old Sarum and Stonehenge, 9 miles across 
Salisbury Plain. Back by Wilton House, Earl 
of Pembroke's. See the splendid Vandyck- 
room, with perhaps the finest and largest 
sized pictures of this master to be found any- 
where in one collection, most of them likenesses 
of the Pembroke family. In the gardens are 
the cedars of Lebanon planted by Sir Philip 
Sidney, it being at Wilton House he wrote his 
"Acadia." Near by is the church built by 
Lord Herbert of Lea, at a cost of £80,000. 
Back to Salisbury to dine. Expenses, . 1 15 

Dec. 15. — Leave Salisbury in train at 10 for 
Tisbury, 17 miles, where, taking a fly, drive to 

Wardour Castle, Earl of Arundel's, a fine house, 

with a very grand hall. Walk across the park 442 9 
42 



SALISBURY.] ENGLAND. [white hart. 

to old Wardour Castle, a splendid ruin, magnifi- £ s. 
cently clothed in ivy, and with the most superb 442 9 
cedars in England, except those at Warwick. 
Here Lady Blanche Arundel defended the cas- 
tle for a fortnight, with a handful of men, 
against one thousand Parliament troops. From 
here, drive across the country to Fonthill, at 
present belonging to the Marquis of Westmin- 
ster, once the celebrated residence of the eccen- 
tric Beckford, the talented author of " Vathek," 
the most gorgeous of Eastern stories. There 
are, however, no remains of the original Font- 
hill Abbey of Mr. Beckford's time, except a 
portion of the great tower; and to one not 
interested in Mr. Beckford's history and the 
extraordinary circumstances connected with 
the building of the abbey, this visit might be 
omitted. Back to Salisbury by 6. Expenses : 
fare to Tisbury, 18s. ; carriage, 18s., . . 1 16 

Dec. 16. — See cathedral again, the chapter- 
house being particularly fine. Leave Salisbury 
at 2.15, reaching Winchester (The George) at 
3.33. Bill at Salisbury, three days, £9 2s.; 
Salisbury to Winchester, £1 4s., . . . 10 6 

Dec. 17. — Winchester. See cathedral and 
Winchester school, etc. 

Dec. 18. — Leave Winchester at 10.12 by train, 
reaching Basingstroke at 11, where, taking a 
fly, drive 6 miles to Strathfieldsaye, the Duke 
of Wellington's, a flat place, with a pretty 

river running through the lawn ; a very plain 

yellow-stone house of two stories, simply fur- 454 11 
43 



WINCHESTER.] ENGLAND. [the geoege. 

nished, with the same patterned carpet over £ s. 
the whole house, most of the chambers and 454 11 
some of the parlors being papered with engrav- 
ings pasted on the walls. There is an avenue 
of yews here very good, and an interesting 
enclosure, where Copenhagen, the horse which 
the duke rode at the battle of "Waterloo, is 
buried ; the place generally of little pretension. 
Back to Winchester at 3. Expenses, . .20 
Dec. 19. — Bill at Winchester, four days, . 3 10 
Leave Winchester by express train at 10.12, 
reaching London (Maurigy Hotel, Kegent Street) 
at 12.9. Winchester to London, . . .26 



462 7 

This trip, of about four months, of which three 
weeks were passed at Torquay and some two weeks 
at other places, might be accomplished in two months 
and a half; and in summer, with longer days, in pro- 
portionally shorter time. The expenses put down are 
simply those of hotels, carriages, and railroads. The 
author's actual expenses for extras, sundries, amuse- 
ments, etc., were, for the period, £712. 
44 



SECOND TOUR. 

ENGLAND. 

{For Three Persons. — Five Weeks.) 

April 8. — Leave London at 12, reaching £ s. 
Rochester (The Bull) at 1.15. After lunch take 
a cab ; drive to Cobham House, Earl of Darn- 
ley's — splendid woods and park. Back by 
Gad's-hill House, residence of Charles Dickens. 
Scene of the celebrated robbery of Falstaff, in 
Henry IV., by Prince Hal. Fare, . . . 15 

April 9. — Visit cathedral. Around the town. 
Seeing Eastgate House — very quaint and ornate ; 
also the old castle said to have been built by 
Julius Caesar. At 12 take train for Canterbury, 
arriving at 1 (The Fountain). After lunch, 
take train for Margate, and then by fly, 4 miles, 
to Ramsgate ; the former much the finest as a 
marine residence. Back to Canterbury at 7, 
to dine. Bill at Rochester, £1 14s. ; fare and 
cab, £1 10s., ....... 3 4 

April 10. — Visit the cathedral; truly mag 

nificent, especially the exterior, which is 4 feet 3 19 
45 



TUNBRIDGE WELLS.] ENGLAND. [THE CAVERLET. 

longer than York Minster, though not as wide. £ s. 
Seeing inside the nave, the spot where Thomas- 3 19 
a-Becket was slain in reign of Henry II., in 
1160; also the tomb and monument, in brass, 
of Edward the Black Prince ; with the original 
shield, coat-of-mail, and helmet with leopard 
crest, worn by the prince at the battle of 
Cressy, in 1350. After that, to St. Martin's, the 
first Christian church, founded in 187 by some 
Christians of the Boman army. Queen Bertha, 
the first Christian queen, was baptized here, in 
the same font they now use ; and St. Augustin 
preached here. Erasmus, in visiting this cathe- 
dral in 1510, said: "Gold was the meanest 
thing to be seen. All shone and glittered with 
precious stones of extraordinary magnitude, 
some larger than the egg of a goose." After 
lunch, at 1, leave Canterbury, one of the 
quaintest of old towns, by train ; reaching Tun- 
bridge Wells, to tea. A lovely spot, and a 
charming hotel in a park (The Caverley). Bill 
at Canterbury, £2 2s.; to Tunbridge, £1 10s., . 3 12 

Both the Bull, at Rochester, and the Foun- 
tain, at Canterbury, are very comfortable, old- 
fashioned inns. 

April 11. — Take train at 12 to Tunbridge, 5 
miles ; then drive by fly, 8 miles, to Knolle, the 
ancient seat of the Dukes of Dorset ; now occu- 
pied by Countess Amherst. A grand old place, 
celebrated even in the time of the Conqueror — 

quite as old as Haddon ; and the state apart 

ments in perfect preservation. The fire-dogs 7 11 
46 



TUXBRIDGE "WELLS.] ENGLAND. [the oaverley. 

very handsome — those in King James's bed- £ s. 
room of solid silver; the bed-cover of cloth-of- 7 11 
gold, in scarlet tissue, cost £8,000 ; the mirrors, 
dressing-table, sconces, etc., like the fire-dogs, 
being of solid silver ; the walls in tapestry cost- 
ing £20,000. The pictures very interesting — 
many Knellers, Lelys, and the original of Sir 
Joshua Reynolds's " Gypsy Girl." Knolle has 
belonged to, and been inhabited at various 
periods by, Archbishop Cranmer, the Earl of 
Leicester, the Earl of Warwick, and many 
others. It is one of the oldest inhabited houses 
in England which retains its ancient furniture. 
The park is truly magnificent, 8 miles in circum- 
ference, with majestic trees; the Duchess's walk 
being very fine. Back to Tunbridge, to dine. 
Expenses, 15 

April 12. — At Tunbridge. Seeing the town. 
Nothing can well be prettier than the situation 
of the Oaverley Inn, or better kept — in a charm- 
ing lawn, like a private place. 

April 13. — At 10, taking a carriage, drive 5 
miles, to Penshurst, the ancient seat of the Syd- 
ney family, and where Sir Philip Sydney was 
born, in 1554. In the park is the oak planted 
at his birth, to which Ben Jonson alludes as 

" That tall tree, too, which of a nut was set 
At his great birth, where all the Muses met." 

Penshurst, like Knolle, was of importance be- 
fore the Conquest ; and, after being in posses- 
sion of several noble families, was presented by 

Edward IV. to Sir "William Sydney in 1549, 8 16 
47 



TUNBRIDGE WELLS.] ENGLAND. [THE CAVEBLET. 

after the battle of Flodden Field. The young £ s. 
Duke of Gloucester and his sister the Princess 8 16 
Elizabeth, the children of Charles I., remained 
a year here, under charge of the Countess of 
Leicester, who was the mother of the " Sacha- 
rissa " of the poet Waller, and a beautiful avenue 
in the park is named from her " the Sacharissa 
Walk." Penshurst was also the birthplace of 
Algernon Sydney, beheaded in the Tower in 
1683. The mansion, like that of Knolle, en- 
closes two courts. The fine old baronial hall 
is 54 feet wide, by 38 long, and 62 high ; having 
a raised dais at the end, and three antique tables 
for the servitors below. The fire was in the 
centre of the hall, on an immense set of double 
bars on high dogs of iron, rudely carved ; the 
smoke ascending through some flumes in the 
ceiling. The most interesting apartments at 
Penshurst are the rooms occupied by Queen 
Elizabeth, where the furniture, bed, dressing- 
table, and toilet arrangements, remain precisely 
as during the queen's visit — even to her ink- 
stand and card-table, embroidered by her own 
hand. In the gallery is a bridle once used by 
the Earl of Leicester. The park was once 6 
miles in extent, but is now much reduced. 
From Penshurst drive by same carriage 1£ 
miles to Redleaf, seat of William Wells, and 
so celebrated by Loudon, in his magazine, 
30 to 40 years ago. The place is still admir- 
ably kept up, and looks precisely as it does 



in Mr. Loudon's illustrations. The flower- 8 16 

48 



ST. Leonard's.] ENGLAND. [victoria. 

garden in diamond beds, edged with tile, is £ s. 
the same — even the rustic houses are un- 8 16 
changed. The ornamental grounds are in as 
exquisite order and as beautiful as it is possible 
to conceive ; about twelve acres, kept by nine 
men, two of whom have worked here for fifty 
years. At end of the lawn, separated by a wire 
fence, is a beautiful rolling park of many hun- 
dred acres ; and immediately near the rockery 
is a charming lake. The collection of trees, 
though not as large as many others, are much 
more interesting from their size; being the first 
ever introduced into England. There are here 
two Deodar cedars, 58 and 65 feet high, which 
had quite assumed the character and habit of 
cedars of Lebanon ; a Gunninghamia sinensis, 
25 feet high, with a stem 5 feet in circumfer- 
ence ; a Gryptomeria, 30 feet; a Douglas fir, 70 ; 
an Abies morinda, 65; and a superb Ifenzie- 
sii, 70. There is also, among a great many other 
very rare plants, a Pinus ponderosa, the largest 
in England, 80 feet high, raised from a seed 
sent Mr. Wells in a letter from the lamented 
Douglas, and taken by him from a cone shot 
down by his rifle. The collection of rhododen- 
drons was very fine, especially the Sikkins in 
the house. Back to Tunbridge, to dinner, at 4; 
where, taking train at 5.30, reach St. Leonard's 
at 6.20 (Victoria Hotel). Expenses at Tun- 
bridge, and carriage, 9 18 

April 13. — St. Leonard's. Walk about the 

town and on the Esplanade, 3 miles long, the 18 14 
5 49 



PORTSMOUTH.] ENGLAND. [the dolphin. 

finest in Europe. Leave St. Leonard's at 1, 
reaching Brighton at 3. (Bedford Hotel.) Bill 
at St. Leonard's, £2 3s. ; to Brighton, lYs., 

April 14. — At Brighton. Walk about the 
town and on the Esplanade ; see the Pavilion, 
built by George IV., in the Oriental style — some 
of the rooms, the banqueting-hall, and music- 
room, being most extraordinary. 

April 15. — Leave Brighton by train, at 11, for 
Ford Station, in 40 minutes; where, by fly, in 
15 minutes, to Arundel Castle — Duke of Nor- 
folk's — a portion built by Alfred the Great, be- 
fore the Norman Conquest, being 1,200 years 
old. In the keep is a subterranean passage, 5 
miles long, to Emberley Castle. Here is a beau- 
tiful funebral cypress. The dairy is very pretty 
and complete, 25 cows being milked by two 
men and a boy, and the milk and butter cared 
for by one woman and a girl. Lunch at Ford 
Station, and at 2.20 by train to Chichester in 
20 minutes. (The Dolphin.) Taking a fly, 
drive 3 miles, to Goodwood, the Duke of Rich- 
mond's; an uninteresting house outside, but 
with some fine rooms and pictures ; a most ex- 
tensive park and race-course; some old cedars 
and evergreen-oaks. Back to Chichester, to 
dine, at 6. Bill at Brighton, £9 10s. ; fare to 
Chichester, £1 6s., 10 16 

April 16. — Leave Chichester at 11, reaching 
Portsmouth at 11.40. Taking a fly, drive round 

the town, as also Portsea and Southsea; seeing 

the dock-yard, where 9,000 men are employed, 32 10 
50 



SHANKLIN.] ENGLAND. [daish hotel. 

and seeing the Victory, on board of which Lord £ s. 
Nelson was killed, at the battle of Trafalgar. 32 10 
Cab and lunch, 12s. ; bill at Chichester, £1 12s M 2 4 

April 17. — At 1.10, by boat to Ryde, 6 miles, 
passing Spithead. Taking carriage after lunch 
at Ryde, drive 9 miles to the beautiful little 
village of Shanklin (Daish Hotel). 

April 18. — Taking carriage, drive to Appel- 
dercombe ; home by Ventnor and Bonchurch, 
15 miles. Bill at Shanklin, . . . 5 10 

April 20. — Leave Shanklin at 11 ; stopping 
an hour at Sandrock Hotel, one of the most 
charming of rural inns, covered with ivy ; and 
later at Northcourt, Sir Henry Gordon's, with 
a pretty old park of only 15 acres. Lunch at 
Brixton, where there is an interesting old 
church 800 years old, where the late Bishop of 
Oxford was incumbent ten years, and reaching 
Freshwater about 5, to dine and sleep. 

April 21. — Leave Freshwater at 10, passing 
Farringford House, the residence of Alfred 
Tennyson; reaching Alum Bay at 11.30 to 
lunch, after which, taking a boat, row around 
the Needles, passing through the Camel's Eye 
into Scratchel's Bay, under immense chalk- 
cliffs, perfectly white, and 600 feet high ; into 
the great cave, 296 feet long, with the over- 
hanging arch, resplendent with exquisite pris- 
matic colors, and covered with thousands of 
birds. Returning to Alum Bay, resume car- 
riage, and passing through several lovely vil 

lages, including Yarmouth, and Carisbrook with 40 4 
51 



west cowes.] ENGLAND. [fountain. 

its castle and well, to Newport, whence by rail 
five miles to West Cowes (Fountain). Car- 
riage round the island, 

Bill at Freshwater, 

April 22. — Take boat across the Medina 
River to East Cowes. Seeing the entrance to 
Osborne, and walking through the grounds of 
East Cowes Castle; again taking boat, row 
round end of the island; a superb sea-wall 
here, belonging to Mr. Bell, of BelVs Life in 
London, costing £30,000. After landing, walk 
through the town to the Esplanade and Royal 
Yacht Club House, at 5; take steamer for 
Southampton at 6. Bill at Cowes, £1 IT ; boat, 
etc., 8s., 2 

Southampton (The Dolphin). 

April 23. — Leave Southampton by train at 
11.35, reaching Oxford (The Mitre), via Basing- 
stoke and Reading, at 3.05. 

April 24. — Walk through the various col- 
leges and their gardens — the avenue in Christ- 
Church meadows, and Addison Water-walk, as 
well as the Botanic Garden, being particularly 
fine. See the rowing on the river every 
evening. 

April 25. — Taking a carriage, drive eight 
miles to Blenheim — Duke of Marlborough's — 
erected in 1707 from designs by Sir John Van- 
brugh. It is, perhaps, the finest private palace 
in England. The suite of state apartments, 

400 feet long, is very grand, and filled with 

magnificent pictures by Rubens, Vandyck, Sir 51 
52 



oxford.] ENGLAND. [the mitre. 

Godfrey Kneller, Sir Joshua Eeynolds, etc. ; £ a. 
that of Sarah, first Duchess of Marlborough, 51 
represents her as one of the most beautiful 
womeu of that period. The hall is very grand, 
67 feet high, and the library, 183 feet long, con- 
taining 17,000 volumes, worth £60,000. The 
gardens also are very fine — some 300 acres, of 
which 150, in grass, are cut every eight days. 
Fine masses of rhododendron and one mass of 
Portugal laurel 320 feet in circumference ; the 
artificial water here is 150 acres. In an en- 
closure near the garden are shown some emeus, 
a species of ostrich, which are quite domesti- 
cated, breeding every year. The hen lays the 
eggs, wherever the fancy takes her ; the cock 
gathers them together, and sits upon them 
himself nine weeks. Lunch at the inn at 
"Woodstock, famous for its gloves, and back to 
Oxford to dine. Expense, . . . .15 

April 26. — Oxford in the morning. Taking 
train at 4.15 p. m., reach Buckingham at 6 
(Swan and Castle). Bill at Oxford, £10 ; Ox- 
ford to Buckingham, 8s., 10 8 

April 27. — Walk or drive to Stowe, the mag- 
nificent seat of the Duke of Buckingham ; the 
entrance near the hotel, through a grand arch 
and an avenue, four miles long, of beeches ; 
the house very superb, 969 feet front, and the 
park very majestic. Lunch at Buckingham, 
and, taking train at 1.20, reach Woburn (Bed- 
ford Arms) at 3.10. 

April 28.— Walk to Woburn Abbey, Duke 62 13 
53 



wobtjrn.] ENGLAND. [bedford arms. 

of Bedford's, close to the inn ; take it all in £ s. 
all, as fine as any place in England — the farm 62 13 
arrangements most extensive and admirable; 
the house and park superb ; and the place won- 
derfully well kept up. The interior of Woburn 
Abbey combines more of elegance and comfort 
than most of the show-houses, the rooms gen- 
erally not being very large or high, though 
very ornate. One apartment contains fourteen 
Vandycks ; another was filled with Canalettas, 
the most valuable collection in the country. 
In the library — a charming room in white and 
gold, with windows opening upon the flower- 
garden, and divided into three parts by col- 
umns, with 14,000 volumes — is the original 
Lion's Mouth, mentioned by Addison in the 
Rambler, into which the contributions to 
the Spectator were thrown. The picture-gal- 
lery, 130 feet in length, as well as the different 
corridors, is filled with splendid pictures of 
the Bedford family, by Kneller, Lely, Sir 
Joshua Eeynolds, etc. ; also some beautiful pic- 
tures by Stuart-Newton and Leslie. Here also 
is the cane which Charles I. left on his last 
visit here. In a circular room at the end are 
Canova's Three Graces. The gardens and 
ornamental grounds — 50 acres — are most 
charmingly laid out and planted — an avenue 
of araucarias, fifteen years old and some 
18 feet high ; also one of Deodars, 30 feet 

high. There is a horse-chestnut here, near 

the house, though outside the Ha-Ha, 300 feet 62 13 
54 



CAMBRIDGE.] EXGLAXD. [the bull. 

in circumference. An arcade leading from the £ s. 
house through the gardens is one-fifth of a 62 13 
mile long. There is a great deal of ornamental 
water in park and gardens, mostly formed by 
the drainage. The park consists of 3,800 acres, 
filled with deer and sheep, and renowned for 
its verdure and fertility. The farm-buildings 
are also very perfect, one large yard, enclosed 
by a high brick wall, being devoted to different 
shops — carpenters, painters, joiners — all the 
houses, carts, fences, buildings, etc., being 
made on the place, even to repairs to the 
abbey. 

April 29. — Leave "Woburn by carriage at 10, 
driving seven miles to Amphill Park — Lord 
Wenslydale — a fine old place with a charming 
avenue ; from here, five miles to Wrest Park, 
Lady Cowper's, a fine house in style of the pal- 
ace of the Tuileries, with gardens truly royal, 
like Versailles, with grand water-squares, 
surrounded by immense yew-hedges and ex- 
tended vistas of elm, lime, and beech, with 
statues and temples at the end of the views. 
The vegetable gardens and training of the fruit- 
trees most perfect ; fifty acres of pleasure- 
grounds ; the walks in the Italian gardens 25 
feet wide, and the water-glades and vistas 
twice this. The American garden was sur- 
rounded by a double yew-hedge, a yard or so 
apart — one, two feet high, the other, three, to 

represent a lady's flounce ; the beds of rhodo 

dendrons and azalias being raised from the 62 13 
55 



CAMBRIDGE.] ENGLAND. [the bull. 

ground-level to six feet in the centre. From £ *. 
here five miles to station, where take train to 62 13 
Cambridge (The Bull). Bill at Woburn, 
£2 10s. ; fly, £2 ; train, 18s., . . . .58 

April 30. — Taking a guide, visit Sydney 
College, seeing the apartments occupied by 
Cromwell when a student here, 1616, his name 
being entered on the college books : " Oliverus 
Cromwell, Huntingtoniensis, admissus ad com- 
meatum sociorum Aprilis vicissimo sexto, tutore 
magistro Kicardo Howlett." Over this is writ- 
ten, " Grandis impostor, carnifexperditissimus." 
To Christ College, seeing the mulberry-tree 
planted by Milton in 1673 ; and St. John's Col- 
lege, seeing the chapel, library, and kitchen; 
also the chapel, library, and kitchen of Trinity, 
where they daily dine 600 undergraduates; 
after which, to the Fitzwilliam Museum and 
Pembroke College, holding only 44 under- 
graduates; and lastly, to Corpus, Peterhouse, 
King's, and Queen's. The chapel at King's 
said to be the finest in Christendom, com- 
menced by Edward IV., and built by different 
kings to Henry VIII., Eichard III. having 
contributed £700 toward it. Walk through 
the beautiful grounds of King's, Caius, Clare, 
and St. John's, down to the boating-station. 

May 2. — Leave Cambridge by train at 1.30; 
reach Audley End, the magnificent seat of 
Lord Braybrook, a splendid estate given by 
Henry VIII. to the first Lord Cornwallis, con- 



taining one of the grandest of halls and dining- 68 1 
56 



elt.] ENGLAND. [the lahb. 

rooms ; the house, once a Benedictine monas- £ s. 
tery. A mile beyond is Saffron Walden, where 68 1 
the church is said to be the finest parish church 
in England. Back to Cambridge at 5.30. 
Expense, 10 

May 3. — Leave Cambridge at 1.30 by train 
for Ely (The Lamb), 16 miles, arriving at 2. 
See the cathedral, by far the most ornate of 
all the English cathedrals ; the wood carvings 
over the stalls most beautiful ; fifteen to twen- 
ty subjects from the Old, and as many from the 
New Testament. The Reredos of alabaster 
wonderfully carved and enriched with precious 
stones, at a cost of £3,000. Bill at Cambridge, 9 16 

May 4. — Leave Ely at 10.48, reaching King's 
Lynn (The Globe) at 11.55. After lunch at 1, 
taking a carriage, drive to Sandringham, 8 
miles ; seat of the Prince of Wales ; an inferior 
house (in 1866), but a grand, new, and spacious 
kitchen-garden of fifteen acres — seven within, 
and eight without the walls. The trees beau- 
tifully trained, the pears (Standards) being all 
trained as distaffs. There are some eight or 
ten new fruit and forcing houses here, thirty 
or forty feet long each, four or five of which 
were devoted to pines, three hundred a year 
being fruited. Flowers, asparagus, mushrooms, 
lettuce, beans, peas, and other vegetables, were 
sent to London every day for the prince's table. 
The gates of wrought iron to the avenue were 

very grand, costing £1,600, and given to the 

prince by the city of Norwich. The interior 78 17 
57 



LYNN REGIS.] ENGLAND. [the globe. 

of the house very simple and small, not as large £ 8. 
or fine as many country-houses on the Hudson 78 17 
Eiver ; the dining-room only holding twenty ; 
the equerries having to be quartered in a cot- 
tage, and the servants in the village. The nur- 
sery of the future King of England was not over 
12 x 15, and his bed a simple little plain cot. 
A very interesting thing at Sandringham is the 
method of breeding and raising pheasants. 
Thirty compartments were each occupied by 
one cock and twelve hen-pheasants. Every 
morning the eggs are gathered and placed 
under common hens, twelve to fifteen to each. 
When hatched, the hen and young pheasants 
are removed to coops, each with a little yard. 
"When sufficiently old, the young pheasants are 
turned out into the preserves. Three thousand 
are raised in this manner in a single spring. 
The dog-kennels are likewise well worth see- 
ing, though only for shooting-dogs — pointers, 
setters, retrievers, etc. 

May 5. — Leave the hotel in a carriage at 10, 
driving first to Houghton House, Lord Chol- 
mondeley's, built by Sir Eobert "Walpole in 
1730; certainly the most superb interior in 
England. The grand hall, a cube of forty feet, 
is unsurpassed, the entire sides and ceiling 
being of elaborately-carved stone, the figures 
of the size of life. The grand banqueting- 
room, drawing-rooms, state bedrooms, etc., 

wonderfully beautiful — especially the ceilings, 

exquisitely carved, enriched, and gilt; the 78 17 
58 



PETERBOROUGH.] ENGLAND. [the angel. 

great wonder of the house being the doors of £ 8. 
solid mahogany in the state-rooms, highly 78 17 
gilded. The views from the windows of the, 
grand avenues and the park are superb. From 
here 14 miles on to Holkham, seat of the Earl 
of Leicester, whose ancestor, Mr. Coke, was 
considered the first farmer in the country. A 
grand house and park, with most stately ave- 
nues. Back 26 miles to Lynn, making a drive 
of 52 miles. Bill at Lynn and carriage, . . 9 19 

May 6. — Leave Lynn at 1.30 by train, reach- 
ing Peterborough (The Angel) at 3.30. Visit 
the cathedral, a portion of the front being very 
beautiful ; the interior also very handsome, 
especially the roof of the Lady Chapel. Here 
is a monument to Mary, Queen of Scots, and 
Catharine of Arragon, who are buried here, 
and a stone carved in figures as a memento of 
the Christians killed by the Danes in 870 — a 
thousand years old. Fare to Peterborough, 
£1 3s. ; bill, £2 6s., 3 9 

May 7. — Walk or drive to Milton Abbey, 
Lord Fitz william's, 4 miles from Peterborough. 
A fine old mansion, time of Henry VIII. ; grand 
old trees in the park, especially one group of 
horse-chestnuts. Taking train at 5.30, reach 
Stamford (The George) at 6. Bill at Peter- 
borough, 2 6 

May 8. — Walk to Burleigh House, Marquis 
of Exeter's, built and planted by the great 

Lord Burleigh, Queen Elizabeth's High Treas 

urer, who (the queen) planted the great elm 94 11 
59 



KETTEBING.] ENGLAND. [the boyal. 

near the house. The hall wonderfully fine, £ s. 
and so are all the state-rooms, which have 94 11 
been occupied by Queen Elizabeth and by 
Queen Victoria. The original kitchen of Lord 
Burleigh is still used. The collection of pic- 
tures very beautiful. Eeturning to hotel, take 
a carriage and drive 25 miles to Kettering 
(The Eoyal), passing, first, Deen Park, Lord 
Cardigan's, the leader of the celebrated charge 
of the Light Brigade at Balaklava. Deen 
Park has very beautiful grounds and lake; 
the Deodar cedars are especially beautiful. 
From here to Farming "Woods, a charming, 
quaint old place ; also with a river, and a 
superb double avenue. Four miles beyond, 
Boughton Park, Duke of Buccleugh's, an im- 
mense old house, the grounds interspersed with 
water-glades and avenues, extending in all 76 
miles. An ancestor to the present duke was 
anxious to make an avenue from Boughton 
to London, 76 miles, but, not being able to 
accomplish this, he made the same amount of 
miles in avenue on his own place. Eeach Ket- 
tering to dinner at 7 o'clock. Bill at Stamford 

and posting expenses, 3 00 

May 9. — Leave Kettering in posting-carriage 
at 10 for Eushton Hall, a grand old Elizabethan 
house, with superb great-timbered hall, where 
Father Oldcorn and two of the Guy Fawkes 
conspirators were concealed in the chimney, 

the place then belonging to Tresham. Taking 

rail, reach Northampton via Wellingborough 97 11 
60 



NORTHAMPTON.] ENGLAND. [THE GEORGE. 

at 12.30. After lunch at the George, take car- £ s. 
riage and drive 6 miles to Althorp, Lord Spen- 97 11 
cer's, a simple but large house, famous for its 
pictures, there being one of a boy blowing 
a light, of inestimable value, and many Ru- 
benses, Vandycks, Lelys, Knellers, etc., etc. A 
grand library of 45,000 volumes, Dry den being 
once librarian. Here is a Decameron, costing 
£2,262, put up at auction at £100, with only 
two bidders — the Duke of Eoxburgh and Earl 
Spencer : second bid, £120 ; third, £150 ; and 
so on, until, within ten minutes, it ran up to 
£2,262. Also, a Bible in vellum, printed in 
gold, four hundred years old, costing £600. 
Back to Northampton to dine, passing a charm- 
ing place — Harleston House. 

May 10. — Taking carriage, drive 8 miles to 
Castle Ashby, Marquis of Northampton's, a 
large though not fine house, with lovely Ital- 
ian and terrace gardens ; charming park, with 
stately avenue. Back to Northampton to 
lunch, when, taking train at 2.20, reach Dun- 
stable, famous for its straw hats and larks ; 
going to the Red Lion Inn, where Charles I. 
slept the night before the battle of Naseby. 
Bill and carriage at Northampton, £3 16s. ; 
rail to Dunstable, 8s., 4 4 

May 11. — Leave Dunstable by train at 9.15 
for Hatfield, where walk through the grounds 
and park of Hatfield House, Marquis of Salis- 
bury's, once occupied by Queen Elizabeth and — 

Charles I. ; a quaint old garden, with pleached 101 15 
6 61 



HARKOW-ON-THE-HILL.] ENGLAND. [THE CROTV^. 

alleys and magnificent oaks. From here by £ s. 
rail to St. Albans, where lunch and see the 101 15 
abbey, built fifteen years after the Conquest. 
From St. Alban's in fifteen minutes by rail to 
Harrow-on-the-Hill (The Crown) ; walk to 
Harrow School, with its beautiful views ; visit 
the church where are the effigies of Lord Byron 
and Sir Eobert Peel, upon the tablet erected to 
the memory of their tutor. Expenses at Har- 
row and carriage, 3 15 

May 12. — Leave Harrow at 9.30, with post- 
horses across the country to Windsor (The 
White Hart) in two hours, 18 miles ; a charm- 
ing drive. After seeing the castle, drive 
through the long walk (3 miles) to the Eoyal 
Lodge (where George IV. once lived) and 
Cumberland Lodge, to Virginia Water, 8 miles 
in circumference, though artificial, passing the 
beautiful Roman ruins erected by George IV., 
supposed to be over two thousand years old. 
Back to Windsor through the Great Park. 

May 14. — Leave Windsor at 10.30, with 
posting-carriage for Stoke Pogis Church, 
where Gray wrote his " Elegy in a Country 
Church-yard," seeing "that yew-tree's shade" 
— there is but one ; " those rugged elms " being 
in the Eton play-grounds, some mile or more 
away, and not in the church-yard, as generally 
supposed ; through the magnificent Burnham 
beeches by Salt Hill (where Eton Montem was 

formerly held) to Dropmore, Lady Grenville's, 

celebrated for its collection of conifers. Here 105 10 
62 



■Windsor.] ENGLAND. [the white hart. 

is a beautiful cedar-of-Lebanon avenue, fifty £ s. 
years old, and the finest deodars, araucarias, 105 10 
douglasiis, etc., in the country, forty to ninety- 
five feet high, many planted fifty years since ; 
a mile beyond is Cleivden, Duke of Suther- 
land's, renowned for its exquisite views and 
flowers. Here is a cedar of Lebanon, brought 
from Mount Lebanon by Mr. Disraeli. Back 
through Windsor Great Park to Windsor, 
where, taking train at 5, reach London at 6. 
Bill at Windsor and post-horse, . . . 8 10 

£114 



THIRD TOUR. 

ENGLAND AND WALES. 

{For Four Persons. — Two Months.) 

June 20. — Leave London at 11.45 by train, 
reaching Devizes at 3.50 (The Bear). See 
town, churches, etc. 

June 21. — Taking carriage at 10, drive first 
to Sloperton Cottage, where Tom Moore lived 
and died. A few miles beyond is Bowood, the 
second finest place in England, Trentham being 
the first ; home by Bromham Churchyard, where 
Tom Moore is buried. 

June 22. — Leaving Devizes at 10, in carriage, 
drive a few miles, to Erlstoke Park, the seat of 
Mr. Watson Taylor ; a superb park, with mag- 
nificent trees. Return to Devizes by 3. 

June 24. — Taking posting-carriage at 9, drive 
through Trowbridge and Westbury, to "Warmin- 
ster, 19 miles; arriving at 12, and lunching at 
the Bath Arms. Taking a second carriage and 
fresh horses, drive 5 miles, to Longleat, the 
magnificent seat of the Marquis of Bath. The 
64 



devizes.] ENGLAND. [clifton downs. 

park, 80 miles in circumference, 1,000 deer, £ s. 
thirteen or fourteen villages, and half of Frome 
and Warminster. The house, huilt 300 years 
ago h y Inigo Jones ; the great avenue is partic- 
ularly grand here. Eeturn to Warminster, to 
dine. After which, leaving the inn with the 
first set of horses, reach Devizes at 8.40, 50 miles' 
drive all round. London to Devizes, £5 ; ex- 
penses at Warminster, £2 10s., . . 7 10 

June 25. — Leaving Devizes at 10, in posting- 
carriage, drive 14 miles to Marlborough ; then 
with fresh horses, 6 miles, to Savenack — the 
Marquis of Ailsbury's. Eight immense avenues 
of beech-trees, converging to a centre, Save- 
nack Forest being the only one in England 
owned by a subject. Some of the trees here 
are as fine as in Sherwood Forest. Back to 
Marlborough, to dine at the Ailsbury Arms. 
Leaving Marlborough at 6, with the first horses, 
reach Devizes at 9. Horses and dinner at Marl- 
borough, 1 18 

June 26. — Visit Devizes Castle, near the 
hotel, first built in 1107; destroyed by Crom- 
well; rebuilt by Mr. Leach, who has restored it 
most wonderfully; with beautiful grounds. At 
2 take train for Bristol, and by carriage to Clif- 
ton — Clifton Downs Hotel — by 4. See Suspen- 
sion-bridge, 700 feet long, 230 feet high, and 34 
feet wide. Bill at Devizes and horses, one week, 19 9 

June 28. — Walk about the town and rocks. 

After lunch drive in carriage to Blaize Castle 

and the Henbury Cottages, most charmingly 28 17 
65 



devizes.] ENGLAND. [beatjfort arms. 

designed and arranged for the poor people of £ s. 
the estate ; also Hen bury Church, . . .28 17 

June 29. — Leave Clifton at 12.45, reaching 
Chepstow at 2.30. Walk to Chepstow Castle, 
where Henry Martyn, one of the regicides, was 
confined 20 years. Bill at Clifton, 5 days, £15 ; 
rail to Chepstow, £1, 16 

June 30. — "Walk or drive 3 miles, to Pierce- 
field Park, with fine views. After lunch drive 
in carriage, 5 miles, to Tintern Abbey (Beaufort 
Arms). Bill at Chepstow and carriage, 3 days, 9 15 

July 1. — Walk or drive to Wyndclyff. Beau- 
tiful view of the Wye ; and back to the Abbey 
rest of the day. 

July 2. — Leaving Tintern in a carriage with 
post-horses at 9.30, reach Monmouth at 12. 
Lunch at Beaufort Arms ; after which drive to 
Troy House, an old place of the Duke of Beau- 
fort's. Seeing Henry V.'s cradle and a famous 
old mantelpiece. Home by Colefort and by 
Clearwell Court, seat of the Countess of Dun- 
raven, a fine old castellated house of the six- 
teenth century, with a most charming little 
church. Back to Tintern by 8. Expenses, . 2 10 

July 6. — Leave Tintern at 10 in carriage with 
post-horses, for Raglan, where lunch; after 
which walk to Raglan Castle, perhaps the finest 
ruin in England. Back to Tintern by 8. Ex- 
penses, 2 10 

July 11.— Bill at Tintern, 8 days, . . 16 13 

Leaving Tintern at 12, in carriage, drive 5 

miles, 76 5 

66 



CARMARTHEN.] WALES. [THE IVY-BUSH. 

to Chepstow ; then by rail through Cardiff, £ s. 
Neathe, Newport, etc., to Carmarthen (The 76 5 
Ivy-Bush), at 6; 96 miles. Expenses of rail, . 4 16 

July 12 — Leaving the inn at 10, drive in car- 
riage and post-horses through the lovely vale 
of Towy, passing Abergwili, with the palace 
of the Bishop of St. Davids ; Grongar Hill, the 
subject of Dyer's.beautiful poem; the ruins of 
Dryslynn Castle, wonderfully situated on a 
conical hill; Dynevor Castle, Lord Dynevor's, a 
magnificent park, with majestic masses of oaks, 
a fine house, and lovely flower-garden ; to Land- 
lilo, where lunch, at the Cawdor Arms. Start- 
ing again at 3, reach in half an hour Golden 
Grove, Earl of Cawdor's, a grand castellated 
house, having a front, including stables and 
offices, of nearly 500 feet, with most exquisitely- 
kept pleasure-grounds. The collection of the 
new evergreens very large and very perfect in 
shape by means of the shears. The view from 
the terrace very extensive and beautiful, re- 
sembling that from Windsor Castle ; embracing, 
among other things, three ruined castles. Pass- 
ing a mile or so beyond, Middleton Park, Sir 
William Paxton's, and Ty Gwyn, once the resi- 
dence of Sir Richard Steele, where he wrote 
" The Conscious Lovers," and much of the 
Spectator, Tatler, and Rambler. Back to the 
Ivy-Bush, where Steele died — about 30 miles. 

July 13. — Bill at Carmarthen, £4 12s. ; car- 
riage, £2, 6 12 

Leave at 1 by train, reaching Tenby (White 

67 87 13 



TENBY.] WALES. [white LIOST. 

Lion) at 2 ; a charmingly-situated little Welsh 
watering-place. "Walk about the town and 
sands. Kail from Carmarthen, 

July 14. — Leave Tenby at 10, with post- 
horses ; driving 5 miles, to Manorbeer Castle, 
a fine old ruin ; then 2 miles farther, to Lamphey, 
an old ruined palace of the Bishops of St. 
Davids, with an exquisite mullioned window; 
and 2 miles beyond, to Pembroke, where lunch. 
After which, 5 miles, to Stackpole Court, another 
seat of the Earl of Cawdor's ; 2 miles beyond 
this, St. Govan's Chapel, in a most desolate 
fissure in the rocks, once inhabited by a her- 
mit; 2 miles farther is the Huntsman's Leap 
and the Caldron or Punch-bowl, an extraor- 
dinary hole, 200 to 300 feet deep, with the 
sea flowing in and out ; 2 miles again beyond 
this you come to the Stacks, three wonder- 
ful rocks, rising one hundred or more feet 
from the sea, and covered with myriads of 
a peculiar sea-bird, which from time imme- 
morial come here, from Russia, to breed. 
Ten miles back to Pembroke, to dine, and 
see the castle. Leaving Pembroke at 8 p. m., 
reach Tenby at 9.30. A very delightful 
excursion of 46 miles (all round). Dinner 
at Pembroke, £1; carriage and driver, £1 

16s., 

July 18.— Bill at Tenby, 6 days, . 
Leave Tenby at 11.30 for Carmarthen, . 
Carmarthen to Strada Florida, rail, . 

68 109 10 



OSWESTRY.] WALES. [WYNSTAY ARMS. 

Thence by carriage (1867) — rail probably now £ s. 
finished — to Aberystwith at 6 p. m. (Belle vue 109 10 

Hotel), 16 

Bill at Aberystwith, one week, . . . 15 

July 24. — Leaving Aberystwith at 1.05, by 
train, reach Shrewsbury at 5 (The Raven Inn). 
A very beautiful journey through a lovely 
valley. Shrewsbury, a very quaint old town, 
with a very beautiful walk called " The Quarry." 
Bill at Shrewsbury, . . . . . . 4 10 

July 25. — Leave Shrewsbury at 2.45, by 
train, reaching Oswestry (Wynstay Arms), an 
old-fashioned inn, with a bowling-green. 

July 26. — Walk or drive 2 miles, to Poking- 
ton Park, a fine place, with a superb cedar of 
Lebanon. At 1, in carriage and post-horses, to 
Brinkinalt, a fine, well-kept place and charming 
house, belonging to Lord E. Hill, and where 
the Duke of "Wellington used to stay when a 
boy. After this to Chirk Castle, seat of Colonel 
Biddulph, founded in 1013, but battered down 
by Cromwell. In one of the chambers is the 
bed used by Charles L, and a beautiful cabinet 
given the family by the king. The quadrangle 
of the castle is very fine, with Elizabethan win- 
dows ; and all the old apartments are in admir- 
able keeping and preservation. Most superb 
views into 17 counties. Back by 6 to Os- 
westry. 

July 27.— Walk or drive 1£ miles, to Park 

Hall, perhaps the most extraordinary and 

ancient old-timbered house in the country; a 129 16 
69 



LLANGOLLEN.] WALES. [the hand. 

very curious old hall, in oak, with a black oaken £ s. 
table, to dine 25, 20 feet long, by 6 to 8 feet 129 16 
wide, made, in 1583, of one plank. The draw- 
ing-room, dining-room, corridor (with old fam- 
ily portraits) all panelled in dark oak, with heavy 
carved bedsteads and chairs; and an estate of 
500 acres. The small diamond windows in 
great bays, extending the whole width of the 
different projections, were very curious ; the 
house being on three sides of a square, with a 
quaint old terrace. From here to an old ruined 
castle, very picturesque, and beautifully situ- 
ated, belonging to the De Warrens. Near by 
an old village, Wittington, with its old houses, 
and church covered with religious mottoes. 
Home by Aston Park, to dine. Bill at Oswes- 
try, 3 days, and 2 carriages, . . . 8 15 

July 28. — Leave Oswestry by rail at 10.40, 
reaching Llangollen at 12.15 (The Hand). Walk 
about the town, seeing the curious old carved 
house of the Ladies of Llangollen — Lady Emily 
Butler and Miss Ponsonby — who lived here 
together in male costume for forty-odd years. 
Rail, 1 18 

Aug. 1. — Walk by the banks of the canal to 
Yalle Crucis Abbey, a beautiful ruin quite 
equal in parts to Tintern. After lunch, drive 
to Wynstay, residence of Sir William Watkins 
Wynn, a fine old park with a grand avenue and 
new house in the French chateau style, the 
old house, with valuable library and pictures, 



140 9 



70 



ludlow.] ENGLAND, [the feathers. 

having been burnt in 1858. Walk to the old £ s. 
castle Dinas, on top of the mountain opposite 140 9 
the hotel. Bill at Llangollen, three days, . 7 19 

Aug. 2. — Leaving Llangollen at 12, reach 
Shrewsbury at 1.40, and the quaint old town 
of Ludlow (The Feathers — most picturesque of 
inns) at 2.30. Rail, 2 5 

After lunch, walk to Ludlow Castle, a splen- 
did old ruin, though admirably well preserved, 
most interesting as having been the residence 
of Edward, Prince of Wales, after his marriage 
with Catharine of Arragon, subsequently queen 
of Henry VIII. ; also of the young princes who 
later were smothered in the tower by their 
uncle, Richard III. Here, too, Milton wrote 
his " Comus," which was performed before the 
court. Over the gate Butler lived, and wrote 
his " Hudibras." Sir Henry Sydney, father of 
the famous Sir Philip Sydney, was governor 
here under Queen Elizabeth. Take it all in all, 
Ludlow Castle is as interesting a ruin as any 
in England, from its admirable preservation 
and the great number of historical characters 
and events connected with it. 

Aug. 3. — Taking a carriage at 10.30, drive 
through the lovely village of Broomfield to 
Downton Castle, the residence of the late cele- 
brated horticulturist, Andrew Knight, for 
many years the president of the London Horti- 
cultural Society — a beautiful house, charming 

flower-garden, grand views over a magnificent 

park. From here to Oakley Park — Lady Mary 150 13 
11 



KIDDERMINSTER.] ENGLAND. [THE LION. 

Olive's ; superb trees, and a great estate — all the £ s. 
eye embraced from the house; by Oomus Val- 150 13 
ley and Haywood, where the scene of the 
"Masque" was laid, and where George Barn- 
well, the London apprentice, killed his uncle. 
Home by Moor Park, a fine old place two miles 
from Ludlow. Carriage, . . . 1 10 

Aug. 4. — Drive again, or walk, to Oakley 
Park, to see the Druid oaks, said to be 3,000 
years old. From here to Downton Hall, Sir 
Charles Boughton's; beautiful lawn and flower- 
gardens, and fine extensive views. Bill at 
Ludlow, three days, and carriage, . . . 5 10 

Aug. 5. — Leave Ludlow at 10.30, and, after 
three changes, reach Kidderminster at 1.10. 
After lunch at The Lion, drive to Hagley Hall, 
seat of Lord Lyttleton (Coke on Lyttleton), 
fine house and grand park ; and to Leasowes, 
the home of the poet Shenstone. 

Aug. 6. — Leaving Kidderminster at 11, drive 
to Stewart Castle, Colonel Foster's, celebrated 
for the perfection of his stables, eight hunters 
being kept here, each in a separate box, well 
ventilated, and heated in winter by hot-water 
pipes. The saddle-and-harness rooms in most 
admirable condition— the bits, stirrups, chains, 
etc., polished as bright as silver. Eighteen 
horses are kept here, one man for every two 
horses. From here a few miles beyond to En- 
ville Hall, Earl of Stamford and Warrington's, 

the finest ornamental grounds in the world : 

157 13 
72 



KIDDERMINSTER.] ENGLAND. [KING'S HEAD. 

75 acres of mown lawn ; a splendid conserva- £ s. 
tory, costing £18,000; four lakes; a purple 157 13 
beech, 350 feet in circumference (the branches) ; 
some horse-chestnuts and limes even larger ; a 
pinns nobilis, 50 feet high ; taxodium dis- 
tichum, perhaps 100 feet in circumference on 
the ground; a Douglas fir, 100 feet high; and 
endless specimens of cedars of Lebanon, deo- 
dars and araucarias. Back to Kidderminster 
by Lea Castle, a charming place, well kept, fine 
trees and grounds. 

Aug. 7. — Leave Kidderminster at 11 in 
posting-carriage, 11 miles, for Whitby Court, 
Lord Dudley and "Ward's. The whole effect 
of the place very stately, Lord Dudley having 
spent within a few years £400,000 upon it. 
The lake is not as fine as that at Trentham. 
The house, a mixture of Trentham and Bo wood, 
is very grand ; the church also very beautiful. 
The estate here runs 12 miles on each side. 
The farms are in exceedingly good condition — 
rented at from 30s. to £2 10s. an acre, and the 
farmer may double and treble his rent, as each 
acre usually produces, when well cultivated, 
from 15 to 25 bushels of wheat. Bill, 
three days at Kidderminster, and three car- 
riages, 12 

Aug. 8. — Leave Kidderminster at 9.05 by 
train, reaching Oxford (King's Head) at 1. 
Kail, Kidderminster to Oxford, . . .25 

See colleges (before described). 

171 18 
7 73 



DORKING.] ENGLAND. [the red lion. 

Aug. 9. — Leave Oxford by train, reaching £ s. 
Dorking (Red Lion) at 4.20. Bill at Oxford, 171 18 
£2 10; rail to Dorking, £2 10, . ..50 

Aug. 10. — Walk to Deepdeen, the residence 
of Mr. Hope, the author of " Anastasius," and 
where Disraeli wrote "Coningsby" — a most 
beautiful place, and in admirable keeping ; 14 
acres of dressed ground, and 14 men and 2 boys 
allowed for the gardens and houses — yet the 
place has never cost over £800 a year. Few 
places in England have more artistic beauty 
than Deepdeen. 

Aug. 11. — Drive to the Rookery, a quaint old 
place with terraced flower-garden over a pretty 
lake ; next to Walton Hall, where Evelyn, 
author of the celebrated "Sylva," was born 
and died ; thence to Abinger Hall — Lord 
Abinger's — a cosy, homeish place, and back 
by Denbies, a grand mansion on a high hill. 

Aug. 12. — The Lion Inn at Dorking once 
belonged to Cardinal Wolsey, and the principal 
parlor, though covered with paper, is really 
panelled in oak, and was the cardinal's dining- 
room. Near The Lion is the old inn described 
by Dickens in the Pickwick Club as The Mar- 
quis of Granby, where old Tony Weller and Bro- 
ther Stiggins, the shepherd, lived. After lunch, 
drive to Juniper Hall, with splendid cedars. 
Here Miss Burney, authoress of "Evelina," re- 
sided ; afterward to Burford Bridge Inn, where 

Keats, the poet, passed his honeymoon, and 

wrote "Endymion;" still farther, by a charm- 176 18 
74 



dorking.] ENGLAND. [the lion. 

ing drive, through Leatherhead to Pulsden, £ $. 

which the great Sheridan once owned. Back 176 18 
by 5, to dinner. Bill and carriage at Dorking, 

6 days, 16 10 

Aug. 13. — Leave Dorking at 10.30, reaching 

London at 11.53. Kail, 12 



194 



Note. — This trip could easily be accomplished in 15 
to 20 days. 

Finest Houses in England : Houghton House, Lord 
Cholmondeley, near Lynn; Burleigh House, Earl 
of Exeter, Stamford ; Badminton, Duke of Beau- 
fort, Bath ; Wentworth House, Earl Fitzwilliam, 
Kotherham ; Castle Howard, Earl of Carlisle, Scar- 
borough ; Blenheim, Duke of Marlborough, Oxford ; 
Chatsworth, Duke of Devonshire, Matlock. 

Finest Places in England : Trentham, Duke of 
Sutherland, Stoke ; Bowood, Marquis of Lans- 
downe, Chippingham; Blenheim, Duke of Marl- 
borough, Oxford ; Enville, Lord Stamford and 
Warrington, near Kidderminster (best flower-gar- 
den in England). 

Most Interesting Places : Knole, Lord Amherst, 
Tunbridge ; Penshurst, Lord De Lisle, Tunbridge ; 
Haddon Hall, Duke of Rutland, Matlock. 

Best Collection of Trees : Highnam Court, Gambia 
Parry, near Gloucester; Redleaf, William Wells, 
Tunbridge; Deepdeen, Mr. Hope, Dorking; Drop- 
more, Lady Grenville, Windsor. 
15 



ENGLAND. 

Most Remarkable Places : Levens Hall, Mrs. Ham- 
ilton, Boness; Biddulph Grange, Mr. Bateman, 
Congleton ; Alton Towers, Lord Shrewsbury, Con- 
gleton; Studley Royal, Earl De Grey and Ripon 
(Fountain's Abbey), Ripon ; Elvaston Castle, Earl 
of Harrington, Derby. 

Finest Castles: "Windsor; Warwick; Belvoir; Aln- 
wick; Arundel. 

Finest Ruins : Ludlow Castle ; Raglan Castle ; Pem- 
broke Castle; Tintern Abbey; Fountain Abbey; 
Melrose Abbey. 

76 



FOUKTH TOUR. 

FROM LONDON, THROUGH BELGIUM, HOLLAND, DENMARK, 
NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, POLAND, AND PRUSSIA, TO 
PARIS. 

June 6. — Leave London by steamer at 5 a. m. from 
St. Catharine's Docks for Ostend, reaching Ostend at 
4 p. m. ; or from London to Dover by rail, thence by 
steamer to Ostend. Taking rail at 5.30, reach Bruges 
at 6.10 (Hotel du Commerce). Expenses, £6 10s. 

June 7. — Taking a valet de place, see the principal 
churches, cathedral, Hotel de Yille, etc. Leaving 
Bruges at 12.30 by rail, reach Ghent (Royal) at 1.45 ; 
after lunch, see the cathedral, with its wonderful pic- 
ture by the brothers Ten Eyck (for which the King of 
Prussia offered two million francs), and the convent of 
the Beguines, where there are nine hundred nuns. 

June 8. — Leave Ghent by rail at 9.15, reaching Ant- 
werp (St. Antoine) at 10.30. See the cathedral, with 
Rubens's celebrated picture of the " Descent from the 
Cross," and the "Marriage of St. Catharine;" also the 
museum and other churches, famous for their pulpits. 

June 9. — Leave Antwerp by rail at 10 for Rotter- 
11 



AMSTERDAM.] HOLLAND. [dolan hotel. 

dam — two hours by rail and two hours by boat, pass- 
ing Dort, a very picturesque old Dutch town, and ar- 
riving at Eotterdam at 3. Drive about the town for 
an hour; then, taking rail at 4, reach the Hague 
(Bellevue) in forty minutes. 

June 10. — Drive about the town and to the museum, 
to see the gallery. Leave the Hague at 2 by rail, reach- 
ing Amsterdam at 4 (Dolan Hotel) ; see the town, 
churches, etc. 

June 11. — By steamer to Brock and back, after which 
visit the pictures at the Musee, and the palace, as well 
as Mr. Hope's collection. At the palace is the largest 
hall in Europe, one hundred feet high, without a sup- 
port. 

June 12. — Leave Amsterdam at 8.20 a. m. by rail, 
reaching Dusseldorf at 2 ; see the pictures, Hopgarten, 
and Prince Frederick's palace (Hotel Breidenbocker 
Hof). 

June 13. — Leave Dusseldorf at 8 by train, reaching 
Hanover at 2. Drive through the old parts of the 
town, to the beautifully-carved old house of Leibnitz, 
and to the museum, with many interesting pictures, 
and through a fine old avenue of limes to the king's 
summer palace. At Hanover, Royal Hotel. 

June 14. — Leave Hanover at 9 by rail, reaching Har- 
burg at 1.30, and Hamburg (Streit's hotel) by carriage 
at 3. See town, water-square, Jew quarter, etc. 

Note. — The above trip through Belgium and Holland 
is, of course, very brief and imperfect, but may be made 
as much longer as necessary. It is only mentioned inci- 
dentally here, as being en route to the north of Europe. 

18 



COPENHAGEN.] DENMARK. [the royal. 

June 19. — Leave Hamburg at 10 a. m., reaching 
Altona at 10.30, and Kiel at 2.30, where dine and 
remain until 8 p. M., when, taking steamer, reach 
Korsoe at 2 a. m. Leaving Korsoe at 7 a. m. by rail, 
reach Copenhagen (Royal Hotel) at 10.30 ; visit Thor- 
waldsen's Museum, palace and gardens of Fredericks- 
burg, with fine views from terrace. 

June 20. — Drive to the celebrated Deer Park, as fine 
in sylvan effects and grouping of trees — principally 
beeches — as any thing in England ; superb single trees 
and beautiful glades and woods ; lunch at a garden- 
house in the forest, and drive home at 6, by the 
strand, with pretty villas and gardens overlooking the 
Swedish coast. 

June 21. — Walk to Rosenburg Gardens and about 
the town. 

June 22. — Leave Copenhagen in steamer at 12, pass- 
ing Elsinore, and reaching Gottenburg about midnight, 
stopping an hour to land and take in passengers. 

June 23. — Still at sea, but about 3 pass into Chris- 
tiania Fiord, the entrance to which, as well as the first 
approach to Christiania, is very striking, though the 
general course of the Fiord is not unlike the Hudson 
through the highlands ; reach Christiania in broad 
daylight at 11 p. m. (Victoria Hotel). 

Note. — The author cannot too strongly recommend 
all travellers intending to make the tour through Nor- 
way, to consult Mr. T. Bennett, No. 17, Store Strand- 
gade, Christiania. Mr. Bennett, who is a most courte- 
ous, amiable, and educated gentleman, and has been 
acting English vice-consul in Norway for many years, 
79 



CHRISTIANIA.] NOBWAY. [VICTORIA. 

can give every traveller all the advice and counsel 
necessary for his comfort, being himself the author of a 
most excellent guide-book through this country, and is 
prepared to furnish money, carrioles, and every thing 
necessary for a successful journey. One of the essen- 
tials in Norway is a complete suit of water-proof clothes 
and hat, and an india-rubber cloth to protect the lug- 
gage from hard rain, to which, in open carrioles, one is 
constantly exposed. One should never be without a 
bottle or so of brandy, and a moderate amount of bis- 
cuit and canned meat, which can be procured at Chris- 
tiania, and still better at Trondhjem, and which are 
most valuable at inferior stations. As a general rule, 
you find at all stations excellent beer, good coffee, 
and generally fresh salmon, but often nothing 
else. 

June 24. — Walk or drive about the town, and to 
Oscarhalle, with beautiful pictures and views. 

July 4. — Leave Christiania (four persons and two 
servants) at 12 by rail to Eishalt, two and a half 
hours ; then by boat to Lilliehammer, on the Miosen 
Lake, arriving at 10 p. m., broad daylight (Mrs. Orms- 
rud's Hotel). Bill at Christiania, one week, and five 
carriages, £20. 

July 5. — Leave Lilliehammer in open carriage and 
three horses at 7 a. m., and a car and one horse with 
the luggage ; having a most wonderful drive up the 
Gudbransdalen valley — immense mountains on either 
side, with the rapid river Logan running through. Af- 
ter 28 miles' posting, stop at Skjeggestad to dine at 1. 
Leaving again at 3, reach Viig at 8 p. m. to sleep. 
- 80 



trondhjem. j NORWAY, [hotel d'angleterre. 

Charmingly situated, the river making a great bend 
round the house, backed by superb mountains, with 
snow-capped tops. 

July 6. — Leave Viig at 7.30, passing through mag- 
nificent but very wild and gloomy scenery, and by 
some wretched huts ; reach Brcemhaugen to dine at 1. 
Leaving here at 3, reach Jerkin in the Dovrefield to 
sleep, at 10.30 p. m. The last 20 miles above vege- 
tation, meeting numerous reindeer — 4,000 feet above 
the level of the sea, passing between two desolate 
lakes, and no human habitations of any sort for 15 
miles. 

July 7. — Leave Jerkin at 3 p. m., passing over an 
elevation of 4,500 feet, and then descending with great 
rapidity on a fast trot and even gallop, having fine views 
of Sneehatten — the highest mountain in Norway, 8,000 
feet. From Kongsvold to Drivstuen — a wonderful 
drive ; and scenery in grandeur and sublimity equal to 
the Alps ; a magnificent road the whole distance ; 
reaching Ny-orne-i-opdal at 9 — a very clean station, 
where you get the first white bread and excellent 
beds. 

July 8. — Leave Ny-orne-i-opdal at 7.30, passing a 
great ravine, 700 to 1,000 feet deep, and a great deal 
of grand scenery, and reaching Storen, the railway 
station, at 2, where dine, and, taking rail at 6, reach 
Trondhjem (Hotel d'Angleterre), the capital of Nor- 
way, at 8.40, after a most wonderful land journey in 
carriages, or carrioles, of 5 days from Christiania. 

July 9. — See Trondhjem ; the palace and cathedral, 
where the kings of Norway and Sweden are crowned. 

July 11. — Leave Trondhjem at 6 p. m. on steamer 
81 p 



NORWAY. [at sea. 

for Hammerfest, the "Nordman" being a very com- 
fortable boat, with good state-rooms and excellent 
table, though apt to be overcrowded at this season. 

July 12. — Arrive at Namsoe about 5 a. m., where 
the boat stops an hour, and where passengers go 
ashore to visit the town ; rest of the day the steamer 
passes through wonderful scenery— high, steep moun- 
tains, sharp and pointed, with thousands of islands. 

July 13. — Pass the line of the Arctic circle about 
4 p. m. Scenery equally wonderful to-day ; rugged 
sharp mountains, 1,500 to 2,000 feet high, covered 
with clouds and snow ; quantities of islands, and nu- 
merous narrow passages hardly wide enough for the 
boat to pass. At a distance is Torghatten, 1,000 feet 
high, with a hole through it ; also the Seven Sisters, 
4,000 feet high, and Hest Mansoen (Huntsman's 
Island). About 10 p. m. reach Bod6, where disembark 
for an hour or so ; full daylight, the sun apparently 
setting about 11 p. m. Great numbers of eider duck in 
this neighborhood. 

July 14.— Snow-capped mountains, occasional nar- 
row passages, and great fiords, all day. 

July 15. — Reach Tromsoe about 11 p. m. From a 
hill near the town, the midnight sun can be seen. 
Many travellers are satisfied to go no farther north, 
waiting here a week for the return-boat, which 
usually remains here several hours, enabling the pas- 
sengers to walk three miles through deep mud and 
across roaring torrents to a Lapp settlement, where 
can be seen about 500 reindeer. 

July 16. — At sea all day, passing through fiords; 
reaching Hammerfest, the most northerly town in the 



NORWAY, [at sea. 

world, at 11 p. m. Taking a boat, row out beyond the 
projecting headland of the harbor ; seeing the midnight 
sun, on this occasion setting about northeast, as low as 
20 degrees, or about 4 diameters above the horizon — 
north declination of the sun, 19° 21' ; altitude of centre 
of sun at midnight, 0° to 1°. 

July 17. — At Hammerfest. Ascend the Thief Fjeld, 
2,000 feet high. From here the view extends beyond 
the North Cape, embracing over 60 lakes and fiords ; 
at midnight the full sunlight. Return to steamer on 
your downward passage. 

July 18. — Wild, precipitous scenery all day — moun- 
tains covered with snow, in some instances to the 
water's edge with glaciers. Great numbers of eider 
duck, which are said to be such good sitters as never 
to abandon their nests, even when a rock is blasted 
near them. 

July 19 to 24. — At sea, running through fiords 
and narrow passages, and finally reaching Trondhjem 
again, at 9 p. m., after 14 days' steaming (Hotel 
d'Angleterre.) 

July 20 to 26. — At Trondhjem. 

July 27. — Leave Trondhjem at 5 p. m., in steamer, 
arriving at Ohristiansund early on morning of 28th 
July ; where go ashore, the boat remaining here two 
hours. 

July 28. — The town very peculiarly situated on rocks 
around a circle of water, with one very narrow entrance 
like a canal. Reach Molde about 1, beautifully situated 
on a fiord; see the Leper's hospital. 

July 29. — Leave Molde at 9 a. m. in a small steamer; 
down the Molde Fiord, very beautiful, especially the 
83 



MOLDE.] NORWAY. [BOMSDAL HOTEL. 

lower part, which is wonderful. Beaching Veblungs- 
nsessett at 1 ; where, taking carrioles, drive to Aak, 
most splendidly situated under the Rorasdal Horn, said 
to be the best station in Norway, except that at Jerkin, 
on the Dovrefield. Leaving Aak after dinner, at 
4.30, in carrioles, drive 30 miles through the celebrated 
Eomsdalen Pass, under perpendicular and jagged 
mountains, 2,000 to 4,000 feet high, through fearful 
passes and by numerous water-falls, to Ormein ; ar- 
riving at 9 o'clock, to sleep. 

July 30. — Leave Ormein at 11 in carrioles for Nys- 
tuen and back, 14 miles ; very fine, with grand falls. 
In the afternoon, ascend the mountain back of the 
station at Ormein. 

July 31. — Leave Ormein at 8 in carrioles, and, after 
another wonderful drive through the Eomsdalen, reach 
Aak, to dine, at 1 o'clock. 

Aug. 1. — Leave Aak at 1, in carrioles, for Veblungs- 
nsessett, where, taking steamer for Molde, arrive at 
7 p.m. 

Aug. 3. — Leave Molde in steamer at 1, reaching Aal- 
sund at 5 p. m. Go on shore for an hour ; sleeping on 
board steamer. 

Aug. 4. — Reach Bergen at 5. Charmingly situated. 

Aug. 5. — See Museum, AthenEeum, etc. ; German 
church. 

Aug. 7. — Leave Bergen at 8 in steamer, for the 
Hardanger Eiord ; reaching Eide, through grand 
scenery, at 9 p. m., and sleeping on board steamer. 

Aug. 8. — Leave Eide at 3 a. m., passing Ulvic and 
Vik, at head of the Eiord. At Vik leave the steamer, 
if you wish to go to the Voringfoss — 10 hours' good 
84 



BEROEST.}. NORWAY. [SCANDINAVIAN HOTEL. 

walking from and back to Vik. On from Vik, through 
magnificent scenery, passing Utne and the glacier Fol- 
gen Fond, to Odde,* and thence back to Eide, to sleep ; 
leaving the steamer at 5 o'clock. An excellent station 
at Eide. 

Aug. 10. — Leave Eide at 10 in carrioles, through 
wonderful scenery and the grandest zigzag road, to 
Vossevangen, where dine and sleep. An excellent 
house here. 

Aug. 12. — Leave Vossevangen in carrioles at 9, over 
a very fine though very hilly road, to Stalheim, where 
the wonderful descent commences by the zigzag, twelve 
turns being in sight at once, into the valley of the 
Naerodal, by far the finest scenery in Norway — truly 
sublime. Beach Gudvangen at 3, to dine. Opposite the 
Heilfoss, 2,000 feet high. Taking the steamer in the 
evening, reach Laardalsoren at 12, through wonderful 
scenery. 

Aug. 13, — Remain at Lserdalsoren ; walk to end of 
the Fiord, and also in the other direction from the 
town. 

Aug. 14. — Leave Lasrdalsoren at 8.30, in carrioles, 
and, after a wonderful drive, reach Hseg, to lunch ; after 
lunch, pass the old and interesting church of Borgund, 
built in the eleventh century. The drive the rest of the 

* Kemain here, at Odde, 2 days, if desirous of seeing the Skjiegge- 
foss, the largest fall in the Old World ; and also to visit the great ice- 
glacier, Folgefarden, behind Odde. There are also some very inter- 
esting water-falls — Lothefossen — and quite a beautiful drive to 
them. Fast stations. From Odde, by steamer or boat, 14 hours, to 
Vik, and from there to the Voriugfoss and back, 2 days, unless 
visited before. Utne, 20 English miles above Odde, on the fiord, is 
an excellent station to stop at. 

8 85 



L^EDALSOEEN.] NOR WA Y. 

day runs through a magnificent pass cut in the side of 
tremendous mountains, bordering beautiful lakes filled 
with islands. Toward night reach the summit of the 
Fille Fjeld, 3,1 TO feet above the sea, but quite as wild 
and dreary as the Dovrefield. Above all vegetation, 
except reindeer-moss and heather. Pass several ssetors, 
with herds of cows, sheep, and goats, kept here in the 
summer, and driven in at night round the fires, to keep 
off the bears and wolves, which abound here. Many 
herds of reindeer are or were seen crossing the glaciers 
in many places. Reach Nystuen, on the summit of the 
Fille Fjeld, at 6; a poor station, where potted meats 
are indispensable. 

Aug. 15. — Leave Nystuen at 8.30, in carrioles. An- 
other magnificent drive through Skogstad, fearfully 
wild and grand, and Thune to Oilde ; stopping here to 
lunch. In the afternoon through more magnificent 
scenery, by the banks of the beautiful Strand Fiord, 
to Fagernres, to sup and sleep. An excellent station. 

Aug. 16. — Leave Fagernses at 8.45 in carrioles. A 
magnificent drive all day; very lofty mountains, and 
charming views over lakes; especially the Strand Fiord, 
filled with beautiful islands. Reach Skoien at 5. Good 
station. 

Aug. 17. — Leave Skoien at 6.30 a. m., for steamer on 
Rands Fiord ; driving 2 miles, and leaving in the boat 
at 8 o'clock, breakfasting on board. Reach the glass- 
works at end of the lake (50 miles), at 12.30, when in 
carrioles to Viig, to dine and sleep. Scenery on lake 
pretty, but tamer than the usual Norwegian scenery. 

Aug. 18. — Leave Viig at 9, on horseback, to ascend 
Krogleven, to the King's and Queen's Views; the 



STOCKHOLM.] SWEDEN. [rydberg hotel. 

former the most exquisite view in Norway. About 11 
take carrioles at foot of the mountain, leaving the 
saddle-horses; and, after a magnificent drive of 3£ Nor- 
wegian (25 English) miles, reach Christiania at 4 p. m., 
after nearly 6 weeks' absence, and a cost, for 4 per- 
sons and 2 servants, of $940 in gold. 

Aug. 20. — Leave Christiania at 7, in steamer The 
Excellency Tohl (the best boat), reaching Gottenburg 
(Gotha Galla Hotel) at midnight. 

Aug. 21. — Visit the Botanic Garden — the statues of 
Gustavus Adolphus and The Rivals, the latter espe- 
cially fine. Gottenburg is, perhaps, next to Hamburg, 
the best-built and handsomest town in Northern 
Europe. 

Aug. 22. — Leave Gottenburg at 6 imcanal-boat by the 
Gotha Canal, the views on the Gotha Eiver being very 
pretty and picturesque ; passing the grim old castle of 
Bonus, and, by 11, reaching the beautiful falls at Trol- 
ha?ttan, where the boat takes 1£ hours to get up the 
wonderful locks, at a toll of $250 (silver dollars). 
These falls, the most considerable in Europe in their 
way. About 2, pass several locks and pretty scenery 
and country-houses, a large town — Wernsborg, and 
soon into the Wener Lake, the largest in Europe, 100 
by 50 miles, passing, toward night, into very narrow pas- 
sages, and so again into the canal, sleeping on board boat. 

Aug. 23. — Leave boat at Toraboda at 7 a. m. ; break- 
fasting at railway-station, and taking train at 10.30, 
reach Stockholm at 5.30 (Rydberg Hotel, one of the 
best houses in Europe). 

Note. — The above route is better than either rail or 

87 



STOCKHOLM.] SWEDEN. [rYDBERG HOTEL. 

boat for the entire journey from Gottenburg to Stock- 
holm, as the one day on the Gotha Canal gives you the 
falls of Trolhsettan and the prettiest scenery. 

Aug. 24. — See the palace, the interior being as fine 
as any thing abroad, especially the Dresden China 
Boudoir, where the mirror-frames, chandeliers, and 
even chairs, were of china. The private apartments 
of the king are charming, especially his armory, smok- 
ing-room, and antique tankard room, filled with every 
variety of Scandinavian tankards and drinking- vessels. 
The Indian and Chinese rooms, atelier, and bedrooms, 
were very perfect. Visit also the royal stables and 
church, where are the bodies of Gustavus Yasa and 
Charles XII. After lunch at 2, by carriage to the 
country palace of Prince Oscar, at Bellevue. Also, to 
the charming summer residence of the king at Eosen- 
dal, filled with the most quaint and extraordinary 
things : the Drinkhalle, with 183 cups of delf and 
glass ; another room, with numerous tankards, plates, 
and chandeliers of engraved lead. Back to dine at the 
celebrated cafe in the Deer Garden. 

Aug. 25. — Take steamer, at 11, up the Malar Lake, 
to Drottingholm (6 miles), or Queen's Island, belonging 
to the queen-dowager, a splendid palace; one cham- 
ber, that of Gustavus Adolphus, of blue and gold, 
being as ornate and elaborate as it is possible to con- 
ceive ; the gardens, fountains, clipped trees, and Chi- 
nese palace, very fine. Back to Stockholm at 4 p. m. 

Aug. 27. — Take steamer at 8 a. m. up the Malar 
Lake, reaching, about 12, the wonderful old chateau 
of Skokloster, built, in 1630, by the celebrated Wran- 



upsala.] SWEDE X. 

gle family, and now in possession of the Brays, the 
most noble family in Sweden. There is not in Europe 
a more peculiar or distinctive chateau than this: a 
large quadrangle, the galleries filled with very curious 
and quaint old pictures, and on and over the doors are 
sentences in Latin, Greek, and other languages. The 
rooms, which are very large and numerous, have ex- 
traordinary mantel-pieces of carved and colored wood, 
and the ceilings with projecting figures as large as life ; 
wonderful old cabinets filled with exquisite glass gob- 
lets and tankards taken in the Thirty Years' War. 
The walls, covered with gobelin tapestry, uncommonly 
fresh and well preserved. Leaving here by another 
steamer, reach, in 1^ hours, Upsala, the ancient Scan- 
dinavian capital, beautifully situated at the end of a 
narrow river or canal. The cathedral here, built in 
1258, is very fine, equal in size and character to any in 
England. Beneath the altar is buried Linngeus. The 
tombs of the great Gustavus Vasa and his two wives 
are in the Lady Chapel ; so, also, the crown of John 
III. The university, which is scattered about the 
town, was founded in 1477, and generally contains 
1,400 students, all wearing a white cap, and looking 
like simple, quiet, hard-working young men. Visit 
the house of Linnaeus and his Botanic Garden, having 
quantities of Norway spruces cut into square blocks. 
Dine and sleep at Upsala. 

Aug. 28. — Leave Upsala at 8, in steamer down the 
Malar Lake, in which are some 300 islands, reaching 
Stockholm at 1.30. 

Sept. 1. — Leave Stockholm at 2 a. m., in steamer, 
going on board the night before, for St. Petersburg; 
89 



ST. PETERSBURG.] RUSSIA. [HOTEL DB RTJSSIE. 

the passage across the Baltic often very rough, until 
you get among the islands. Keach Abo, in Gulf of 
Finland, at 5, the first Finnish-Kussian town; going 
ashore for an hour or so, but returning on board 
steamer to sleep. 

Sept. 2. — At sea more or less all day, reaching Vi- 
borg at 7 p. m. ; ashore for an hour or so ; passing 
several forts to-day, destroyed by the English during 
the Crimean War. 

Sept. 3. — Leaving Yiborg early, reach Cronstadt at 
3. At 4.30, first view of the golden dome of Isaac's 
Church and the spire of the Admiralty; reach St. 
Petersburg at 5.30 (Hotel de Eussie — excellent). 

Sept. 4. — Drive to the Summer and "Winter Palaces, 
the Nevskoi Prospekt, the fort, and Isaac's Church, 
which is most magnificent. Outside, the base and col- 
umns are of red granite, or porphyry. Inside, one 
mass of gold, marble, and precious stones ; the grand 
altar being supported by six columns, 50 feet high — 
four of malachite and two of lapis-lazuli. 

Sept. 5. — Taking steamer, go to Peterhoff, seeing the 
splendid golden statues and fountains, equal to Ver- 
sailles ; the palace and gardens very interesting. 

Sept. 6. — Leave St. Petersburg at 2.30 in sleeping- 
carriage, on rail for Moscow — 400 miles — reaching 
Moscow at 9 next morning (Mme. Billet's Hotel). 

Sept. 7. — Taking carriage, drive to the Kremlin, 
where ascend Ivan's Tower, having a wonderful view 
of 1,500 churches, with their domes — red, blue, yellow, 
orange, and green, many of them gilded — one of the 
most remarkable views in the world for a city. After 
which, drive round the town for two or three hours, 
90 



MOSCOW.] RUSSIA. [MADAME BILLET'S. 

seeing all the palaces, mosques, monasteries, etc., and 
out to Peterskoi, where Napoleon lived during the 
conflagration of Moscow. 

Sept. 8. — To the Kremlin, to see the various 
churches, filled with gold, pictures, and precious 
stones— diamonds, pearls, turquoises — many the size 
of a shilling. Subsequently, through the vast collec- 
tion of robes, mitres, etc., for the patriarch and bish- 
ops, one mass of the most precious stones, of immense 
size, though not well polished. Here, also, are great 
silver and gold vessels (kettles) for making the holy 
oil. After lunch, drive to the celebrated monastery 
of Seniinoff, 3 miles from Moscow ; splendid music ; 
about thirty monks. 

Sept. 9. — To the Kremlin, seeing the Treasury, con- 
taining the various arms of the different reigns, the sad- 
dles, bridles, stirrups, swords, etc., being studded with 
precious stones — diamonds, rubies, turquoises, emeralds, 
sapphires, etc. Also the thrones — ivory, gold, and 
silver, encrusted with diamonds and rubies and im- 
mense turquoises. The collection of plate, in size, 
quantity, and shape, passes belief. In one room is the 
collection of crowns ; that of Alexwitch has 881 dia- 
monds, and under the cross an immense ruby. The 
crown of Peter the Great has 847 diamonds ; that of 
Catharine I., 2,536 — splendid stones, to which the 
Empress Anne added the largest ruby in the world. 
The throne of Michael Romanoff has 8,824 fine tur- 
quoises, many as large as a ten-cent piece, and 1,220 
other jewels. After lunch, drive to Sparrow Hill, 
about 4 miles, where Napoleon, on the 14th of Sep- 
tember, 1814, had his first view of Moscow. The 
91 



MOSCOW.l RUSSIA. [MADAME BILLET'S. 

Opera-House is very superb, with the widest stage 
and largest orchestra in Europe. 

Sept. 10. — To the Eomanoff Palace, very small, but 
very characteristic of the early life of the present royal 
family before coming to the throne. Also to St. Basil's 
Church, with 11 chapels above and 6 below. After 
lunch, to the Foundling Hospital, the most wonderful 
institution of the sort in the world. Its revenues are 
600 to 700 millions of rubles — more than twice the 
revenue of Prussia; having 10 per cent, on all the 
receipts of the. theatres, and the monopoly of cards 
throughout the empire. Since 1st January last (hardly 
nine months), 7,890 children have been admitted, and 
580,000 since its commencement; 25 children daily is 
the average number left here. The children are all 
educated to speak four languages ; and, if they show 
ability, become tutors, governesses, music-teachers, etc. 

Sept. 12. — Leaving Moscow in train at 1.30, reach 
St. Petersburg at 10 next morning. 

Sept. 13. — See the Ecole des Mines, filled with pat- 
terns and models of all the mines in Switzerland, 
Siberia, etc. ; also the Winter Palace, with many pic- 
tures of great Eussian battles; also the crown jewels, 
more magnificent than can well be described — one 
necklace, with diamonds each as large as a shilling. 
The throne-room, St. George's Hall, and other halls, 
superb; 7,000 persons reside here when the emperor 
comes to town for the season. In this palace is also to 
be seen the simple, unostentatious little chamber where 
the Emperor Nicholas died. 

Sept. 14. — To the Hermitage, which really requires a 
week to be seen thoroughly. The magnificent collec- 
92 



ST. PETERSBURG.] RUSSIA. [HOTEL DE RUSSIE. 

tion of pictures being almost unsurpassed in any other 
gallery — Rubens, Vandyek, Guido, Teniers, etc., a 
room of each. The works of art, especially marbles, 
most superb. Exquisite vases, candelabras, tables of 
malachite, vert-antique, lapis-lazuli, pink and variegated 
marbles. The collection of antique rings very interest- 
ing. Afternoon, drive to the great palm-houses and 
botanic gardens belonging to the Czar (on the Apothe- 
cary's Island), who pays $45,000 a year for their sup- 
port. There are 12 houses, very old and shabby, 
having been built over 30 years ; the plants are very 
fine and large, the varieties of evergreens being over 
3,000, two araucarias, over 35 feet high, costing 
$1,400. 

Sept. 16. — By rail to Tzarko Selo, thence by carriage 
to the palace, the summer residence of the emperor, 
14 versts from St. Petersburg ; a splendid and curious 
old palace. The grounds, roads, arrangement of or- 
namental water, quite English in their character and 
keeping. Also drive to Paulovsky, the palace of the 
Grand-duke Michael. Back to St. Petersburg by 5. 

Sept. 18. — To the Hermitage again, seeing the splen- 
did collection of snuff-boxes and objects of Peter the 
Great, as well as the tools, turning-lathes, and various 
things made by him; also again revisit the magnificent 
gallery, especially the Russian Rubens and Vandyek 
rooms, as well as the Mseris, Van Steen, and Teniers 
collection. Later drive to the Taurida Palace, with its 
great ballroom, half a mile in circumference, and really 
beautiful gardens. 

Sept. 22. — Leave St. Petersburg in a cabinet parti- 
culier (carriage on rail), at 1, and, after travelling all 
93 



WARSAW.] POLAND. [hotel de l'eueope. 

night, breakfast next morning at the station in Wilna, 
lunching at another station at 2, and reaching "Warsaw 
(Hotel de l'Europe), at 6 p. m., after 30 hours in train. 

Sept. 23. — Taking a carriage, drive round the town, 
seeing the palaces of the old Polish nobles — the Sobi- 
eskis, Poniatowskis, Bruhls, etc. ; and out to the 
summer palace of the emperor, built by the last Polish 
king — certainly the most charming house, water, and 
grounds, ever imagined. Just beyond, the Belvidere, 
the palace of the Grand-duke Oonstantine. 

Sept. 25. — Leave Warsaw at 1, by train, changing 
cars at Bromberg; at Thorn passing the Russian, and 
at Alexandravitch the Prussian, frontier, and reaching 
Berlin at 6 the next morning (Hotel St. Petersburg). 

Oct. 2. — Leave Berlin at 6 a. m. by train; reach 
Cologne at 9.30 p. m. ; 403 English miles. 

Oct. 4. — Leave Cologne (Bellevue Hotel), at 9 a. m., 
by train; reaching Brussels at 3.30 (Bellevue, a most 
excellent hotel). 

Oct. 10. — Leave Brussels by express train, at 9.05 ; 
reaching Paris (Hotel Bristol) at 5 p. m. 

Note. — The entire journey from London, back to 
Paris, including Belgium, Holland, Hanover, Denmark, 
Norway, Sweden, Russia, Poland, Prussia, occupied 4 
months and 4 days, and might readily have been accom- 
plished in 3 months. The entire cost 19,446 francs — 
say 4,000 dollars in gold — for actual travelling expenses ; 
and for a party of 4 and 1 servant, and in Norway 2 
servants. 



94 



TOURS THROUGH SICILY AND SPAIN. 

PAEIS TO MALTA, MALTA TIA SICILY, NAPLES, ROME, 
FLORENCE, GENOA, THE CORNICHE EOAD, AND SPAIN 
TO PAEIS. 

Jan. 1. — Leaving Paris at V p. m. by train {coupe an 
lit), reach Marseilles next day at noon (Grand Hotel 
de Marseilles). 

Jan. 3. — Leaving Marseilles at 8 a. m. in steamer, 
reach Malta third afternoon at 6 p. m. (Dunsford's 
Hotel). 

Feb. 20. — Leaving Malta at 5 p. m., reach Syracuse 
in Sicily at 4 next morning. Quitting steamer after 
breakfast, visit the fountains of Arethusa, the museum, 
the Temples of Minerva and Ceres, the Ear of Diony- 
sius, etc., returning to steamer at 11. Reach Catania 
(Grand Hotel) at 2 ; beautifully situated. Leave 
steamer here. 

Feb. 21.— See the town and the grand street Victor 
Emmanuel ; by carriage to the magnificent church of 
the Benedictines, the largest in Sicily; then to the 
remains of the Greek Theatre, built before Christ, said 
to hold 3,000 persons — the amphitheatre of seats and 
much of the exquisite carved marble in the finest pres- 
95 



CATAOTA.] SICILY. [GEAKD HOTEL. 

ervation. After this, to a pretty public garden, with 
araucarias, palms, aloes, etc., the banks being masses 
of verbenas, petunias, lobelias, to cover the naked 
ground, instead of grass. In the Botanic Garden are 
beautiful specimens of araucaria-bidwillii, biota-cana- 
riensis, taxodium-mucronatum, and casurina-torulosa. 

Feb. 22. — If clear, the finest view of Mount Etna is 
from the hotel. Leave Catania by train at 3, reaching 
Messina at 6.40, over a most superb road and through 
interesting scenery ; many towns on top of mountains, 
and picturesque old castles. At Messina, Hotel Victo- 
ria excellent. 

Feb. 23. — Walk about the town and up the Strada 
Victor Emmanuel to the Catania Gate. In the after- 
noon drive to a beautiful view over the city. 

Feb. 24. — Leave Messina at 8 a. m. in steamer, pass- 
ing through Scylla and Charybdis, just outside the 
straits, and by Stromboli, wreathed in volcanic smoke, 
about 10. At 12 reach Lipari, a picturesque town on 
top of a mountain, where the boat stops an hour. 
This is on one of the iEolian isles. At 4 reach Mo- 
lasso, remaining here four hours, and arriving at 
Palermo at noon the next day (The Trinacria) ; excel- 
lent hotel. The passage from Messina to Palermo 
should, if possible, be always taken by daylight, as it 
is inexpressibly charming ; the most extraordinary 
towns, convents, and castles, perched up on top of 
apparently inaccessible mountains — many in ruins. 
Palermo itself hardly inferior in situation to Naples. 

Feb. 25.— Walk to the English Garden (beautifully 
situated on the Marina), and to the elaborate Moorish 
cathedral ; drive to Baida, a deserted monastery, su- 
96 



PALERMO.] SICIL F. [TRINACRIA. 

perbly situated on a mountain, with magnificent views 
of Palermo ; from here to the gardens of the Duke of 
Ragusa, with a well-contrived labyrinth and rustic 
house, on opening the doors of which, a monk rushes 
at you from one and blesses you from another. The 
place itself a tangled mass of exquisite exotics (all the 
varieties of palms, yuccas, aloes, araucarias, acacias, 
casuarinas 20 feet high, india-rubber as large as apple- 
trees, abutilons, daphnes, evergreens), magnolias, etc., 
and camphor-trees, through which run walks in every 
direction. 

Fed. 26. — Leaving the hotel at 10 a. m., drive in car- 
riage to Monte Eeale, a superb old convent on top of 
a mountain 5 miles from Palermo, with a wonderful 
view of the city, sea, and valley ; connected with it is 
a church, perfectly encrusted and lined with mosaics — 
one piece of floor lately repaired, some 20x50 feet, 
cost £4,000. The cloisters here are also very beauti- 
ful, each column and capital being of different design. 
The view from the terrace of Monte Eeale is perhaps 
as fine as any thing in Europe. Visit on your way back 
the Capuchin convent, containing 8,000 dried monks — 
one who died in 1600 having his nails, fingers, and 
tongue, quite perfect. 

Feb. 27. — Drive in one and a half hours to Bacheria, 
seeing the wonderful palace of the monsters ; the ave- 
nues having, at intervals, on parapets and pedestals, 
the most grotesque figures in stone, of devils, demons, 
etc. ; the interior very magnificent, though in decay ; 
the grand drawing-room, 60 feet square, being ceiled 
in mirrors, on which were painted various figures; the 
walls of different-colored porphyry and marbles, with 
9 9V 



NAPLES.] NAPLES. [VICTORIA. 

busts and figures of the family in alto relievo ; the floor 
of marble, alabaster, and porphyry. Another palace 
hard by, belonging to Prince Eiso, had a terrace from 
which were exquisite views of Palermo and its bay, 
and a second bay on the other side of the mountains. 
The palace of Prince Bouterer also very interesting, 
with superb views, and having near it a house filled 
with wax-figures of priests in their different occupa- 
tions, very well done. Back to Palermo at 5. 

Feb. 28. — Leaving Palermo at 1 in steamer, reach 
Naples next morning at 6 (The Victoria Hotel). 

March 6. — Leaving Naples by rail at 10.30, reach 
Eome (Hotel de Rome) at 7 p. m. 

March 16. — Leaving Rome at 8 p. m. by train {coupe 
au lit), reach Florence next morning to breakfast 
(H6tel de l'Arno). 

March 22. — Leaving Florence by rail at 10.45 a. m., 
reach Pisa at 1.15. Leaving Pisa by a later train at 
3.30, reach Genoa at 4. After dinner at the hotel, 
take steamer at 8 p. m., arriving at Genoa (Hotel 
Feder) at 5.30 next morning. After seeing the town, 
drive a few miles to the Villa Pallavicini, not usually 
visited by travellers, but more remarkable than any 
gardens in Italy, or possibly in the world. The estate 
is kept in order by 20 directors, 8 gardeners, and 30 
assistants, the usual pay being 2 to 3 francs a day : you 
pass from the house on to a superb terrace of white 
marble, having a very extended view over the city and 
the Mediterranean, as far as the mountains of Corsica ; 
below, a series of terraces, with white-marble balus- 
trades and steps — these terraces bordered by espaliers 
of oranges and lemons, 20 feet high, and standard 
98 



GENOA.] TUSCANY. [hotel feder. 

camellias (10 to 20 feet high) of every color, in full 
flower ; these were interspersed with large azalias and 
rhododendrons, also in bloom. From the other side 
of the house you enter (through avenues of laurel and 
laurestinus, heath in flower 12 to 15 feet high, 8 or 
10 varieties of holly) the beautiful Grecian temple in 
white marble, with exquisite frescos. On the other 
side of this is a long Italian walk, bordered by vases, 
and planted with dwarf oranges in fruit, with a back- 
ground of firs, and terminating in another beautiful 
temple. From this again you pass through narrow, 
tortuous walks, to a little rustic cottage, designed 
to show the contrast between high art and simple 
Nature. Ascending through dense woods of holly, 
laurel, Portugal laurel, and sweet bay, surmounted 
by majestic Italian pines, you come suddenly upon 
a wild, picturesque fall, the water brought 5 miles, 
forming a small lake, in which the fish are fed at a 
cost of $2.50 a day. This walk, with occasional stop- 
ping-places, indicated by rustic seats, leads to the sum- 
mit of the mountain, upon which is a ruined tower, 
with superb views in every direction. Descending 
the mountain through similar plantations, you come, 
amidst dense undergrowth of yew and holly, upon 
some ruins, intended to represent a city destroyed by 
war — mossy and ivy-grown. A turn in the walk sud- 
denly brings you in front of a cavern of stalactites, 
brought at great expense from every part of Italy ; 
you pass through intense gloom and shadow for 
some way, presently emerging into a lighter cavern, 
30 feet square, the crevices of the rocks overgrown 
and draped with ivy and parasites, admitting sufficient 
99 



GENOA.] TUSCANY. [hotel feder. 

daylight to perceive a large lake, occasionally appear- 
ing and disappearing between the columns and walls 
of the cavern. Your guide now saluting you, says, 
"Addio, signor! I shall again behold you in the Tem- 
ple of Flora!" and suddenly leaves you. Presently, 
in the dim, distant windings of this mysterious cavern, 
a gilded boat appears, propelled by a picturesque 
Charon ; you enter, and, after several minutes of alter- 
nate light and shade, passing through narrow, gloomy 
passages, where the dimmest light is only seen, and 
again into large caverns — luminous through crevices in 
vaulted roofs of rock, — you suddenly emerge into the 
bright sun in a beautiful little lake. In the centre is 
an island, on which stands a most charming and 
exquisitely-sculptured temple, containing a statue of 
Diana ; at some little distance, in the water, are four 
statues of the Tritons. There are several other small 
islands, connected by Chinese bridges, elaborate in 
color and gold ; under one you have, from your boat, 
a most exquisite view of the Mediterranean, some 700 
feet below. On another side of this little lake is a 
charming garden, surrounded by dense, umbrageous 
plantations of arbutus, oleander, and laurestinus, con- 
taining a parterre exquisitely laid out and planted in 
azalias and camellias, of every shade of color : in the 
midst stands a lovely little temple of purest marble, 
called the Temple of Flora. Here you disembark, and 
are again received by your former guide, who informs 
you that this grotto and lake cost nine hundred thou- 
sand francs, and occupied four hundred men daily for 
two years to complete it. Passing a cork-tree, said to 
be the largest in Italy, you come to a rustic bridge 
100 



MARSEILLES.] FRANCE. 



[GRAND HOTEL. 



leading to a summer-house, beyond which is a swing. 
On crossing the bridge, a loose plank touching a spring 
covers you with water ; running into the rustic-house 
to get rid of this, you find yourself the centre of four 
horizontal sheets of water. If you attempt the swing, 
you are drenched from all the adjacent trees. Eeturn 
to Genoa at 6. 

March 25. — Leave Genoa at 10 a. m., with vettu- 
rino and four horses, who, for ten napoleons, delivers 
you at Nice. You stop at Cagoletto, the birthplace 
of Columbus, to lunch, reaching Savonna to dine and 
sleep about 6. 

March 26. — Leave Savonna at 8.30 ; reach Oneglia 
at 5.30 to dine and sleep. 

March 27. — Leave Oneglia at 9 ; reach Mentone at 
5 to dine and sleep. 

March 28. — Leave Mentone at 8.30, arriving at Nice 
at 1.30, and, taking rail at 3.20, reach Marseilles at 
9.05 p. m. (Grand Hotel). 

Note. — As the intention of these routes is simply 
to be a guide through those countries and places not 
so well known as others, all details of what to see in 
Naples, Eome, Florence, Genoa, etc. (with the excep- 
tion of the account of the Pallavicini Gardens), have 
been omitted here. In fact, upon this journey the 
writer merely passed through these cities, having 
made long visits to them in previous years. 

March 31. — Leave Marseilles at 11.30, reaching 
Nismes at 2.25. See the beautiful Maison Carree, the 
Amphitheatre, and the exquisite Jardin de la Fontaine, 
101 



MONTPELLIER.] FRANCE. [HOTEL NEYET. 

with superb fountain and Temple of Diana, etc., after 
lunch. Leave Nisrnes at 5 ; reaching Montpellier (Hotel 
Never) at 6.50. 

April 1. — Visit the celebrated Jardin Peyrou, quite 
the finest in Europe, the water-tower most exquisite, 
and the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. as fine as that 
of Marcus Aurelius at Rome. The Botanic Garden, 
founded by Henry V., in 1598, very interesting, espe- 
cially a Cupressus pen&ula from Japan, and an avenue 
of clipped Judas-trees. The old Moorish porch of the 
cathedral, as well as the new Palais de Justice, are very 
fine. The Musge of Pictures, especially the smaller 
room, one of the most interesting galleries in the world ; 
containing 11 Greuses and 11 Teniers, all in exquisite 
order. Leave Montpellier by train at 12.50, reaching 
Oette in 30 minutes; lunching at an excellent buffet. 
On again by rail at 3, reaching Perpignan at G.50, 
where sup. Taking the first Spanish diligence at 10, 
and driving all night, reaching the Spanish frontier at 
3 a. m., where luggage is examined. At 10, reach 
Geroma, to breakfast, and at 12, taking a train, reach 
Barcelona (Hotel de 4 Naciones) at 3.35. 

April 2. — Visit the cathedral, where the instalment 
of the Knights of the Golden Fleece took place ; very 
handsome, especially the stained glass, said to be the 
finest in Spain; the churches, Santa Maria del Mar and 
Santa Maria del Pino, Oasa de la Disputacion, with 
some fine old Moorish arches. Drive to the Rambla in 
the evening. 

April 3. — Leave Barcelona at 8 o'clock (Madrid 
time), reaching Tarragona at 11.30, a very ancient and 
Spanish-looking city (Hotel Fonda de Paris.) Visit the 
102 



VALENCIA.] SPAIN. [FONDA DEL CID. 

cathedral, the altar being exquisitely finished, as well 
as the cloisters, said to be the finest in Spain ; all the 
columns being different ; one representing in its carving 
a cat pursuing some mice — the cat at one portion pre- 
tending to be dead, is carried off' by the mice to be 
buried, but, presently awakening, attacks the mice 
right and left. 

April 4. — Leave Tarragona at 8, by rail for two hours, 
and by diligence, drawn by six mules, for three hours, 
passing Tortosa, an ancient Spanish town. Taking a 
train about 3, reach Yalencia (Fonda del Cid), at 
9.30; passing through a country cultivated like a 
garden. 

April 5. — Drive to the old Moorish palace, now the 
silk-mart, very characteristic and interesting. In the 
afternoon to the Glorieta, a beautiful drive, with a 
charming garden, planted with trimmed box, with 
standard orange-trees in full blossom ; the flower-beds 
gay with tulips and all the early summer flowers. 

April 6. — Ascend the cathedral, with the finest view 
in Spain, 260 steps to the top. Taking train at 2.10, 
reach Alicante at 9.50 (Fonda del Vapor). 

April 7. — Drive in carriage 4 leagues (2 hours) to 
the Arab town of Elche, situated in an oasis of palms, 
most Oriental and Asiatic in appearance, from the 
palms and character of the Bedouin-like houses. In the 
Church of St. Maria is a statue of a virgin, which is held 
in great reputation — often dressed in expensive gar- 
ments and jewels, etc. She is even a landed proprietor, 
having in her possession the finest palms and orchards, 
called "Huertos de la Virgen" — the produce goes to 
pay for her dresses, candles, and the expenses of the 
103 



GIBRALTAR.] SPAIN. [CLUB HOUSE. 

priests who have her in charge. The view from 
the tower, over this oasis of palms, is very strik- 
ing. 

April 8. — Leave Valencia in steamer at 10 p. m. ; 
passing the next day, at a distance, Carthagena and 
other towns on the coast, and reaching Malaga at 3 on 
morning of the 10th of April (Hotel Victoria). 

April 10. — Drive a few miles, to a charming country- 
place belonging to Mr. Loring, now Marquis of Caridad, 
formerly of Boston. The garden beautifully arranged 
and planted — araucarias, palms, deodars, etc., only 
11 years old, immense for their age. 

April 11. — Leave Malaga in steamer at 6 a. m. After 
a very delightful passage along the coast of Spain, reach 
Gibraltar at 4.30 p. m. 

April 12. — See the town. Walk through the gal- 
leries in the rock — most extraordinary — 1,400 feet in 
height — guns in every direction — 700 in all — 6,000 men 
in garrison, provisioned for 7 years. It is supposed that 
it is impossible to take Gibraltar, but not impossible for 
a fleet to run through the straits, only 12 miles wide. 
In the evening in carriage to Europa Point, a most 
exquisite drive, not only from the views, but the beau- 
tiful plants and gardens on the road — the houses with 
pretty English-cottage effect, geraniums growing wild, 
and aloes flowering in abundance. 

April 13. — Leave Gibraltar in steamer at 7 a. m., and 
after another charming voyage by the coast, reach 
Cadiz at 4 p. m. ; beautifully situated on a peninsula. 
The houses all whitewashed, with green and blue 
verandas. The cleanest city in Spain. (Hotel, Fonda 
de Paris.) 

104 



SEVILLE.] SPAIN. [FONDA DE PARIS. 

Note. — From Gibraltar a very pleasant excursion 
may be made in two or three hours, across the 
straits, to Tangier, in Africa ; returning next day to 
Gibraltar. 

April 14. — Leave Cadiz at 6 a. m., passing Xeres at 8 
(where you may stop for a later train), and reach Seville 
at 10.15 (Fonda de Paris). 

April 15. — Visit House of Pontius Pilate, supposed 
to be a copy of the original house at Jerusalem — thor- 
oughly Moorish and Alhambra-like in character, and 
very beautiful. Afterward to the Musee, to see the 
Murillos, of which the " St. Thomas giving Alms " is 
considered the finest ; later to the cathedral, by many 
considered even more interesting than St. Peter's, the 
stained glass being very beautiful, and the carvings to 
the two organs most superb. 

April 16. — To the Church of La Caridad, where are 
four more Murillos; "Moses striking "Water from the 
Rock" and "The Miracle of the Loaves and Fishes" 
being considered the finest. After this to the wonder- 
ful xllcazar, the old palace of the Moorish kings, more 
perfect in color and restoration than can be easily 
imagined. 

April 17. — Some of the festivities of Holy "Week, as 
well as the bull-fights, usually commence about this 
time, and are well worth seeing; the display during 
Holy Week being even greater than at Rome — in fact, 
they are of sufficient importance to make it an object 
to the traveller to visit Seville during this period, 
though it is apt to be very crowded. 

April 23. — Leave Seville by train at 10 a. m., reach- 
105 



COKDOVA.] SPAIJY. [FONDA SUISSE. 

ing Cordova at 1.30 (Fonda Suisse). After lunch, 
visit the cathedral, the purest and hest specimen of 
Moorish architecture in Spain; nearly 1,000 columns, 
most superb Moorish arches, with gilded and colored 
embroidery in plaster. 

April 24. — Again visit the cathedral, also to "The 
View," with the old Moorish mill, Roman gates, and 
Spanish bridge. Taking train at 12, reach Malaga at 
6.30 p. m. (Hotel Victoria). 

April 26. — Leave Malaga in diligence and four mules 
at 7 a. m., toiling up the mountains for five hours; 
wonderful views, with the wildest and most dreary 
scenery; an elevation of 3,000 feet above Malaga; 
reaching Loja to dine and sleep — an old Spanish posa- 
da, exactly as it was forty years ago, when Mr. Irving 
slept here, and described it. 

April 27. — Leaving Loja at 4 a. m. by diligence for 
railway station, and by train at 5, reach Granada at 
8.30, and the Hotel Washington Irving (at the Alham- 
bra) at 9, to breakfast. Make your first visit to the 
Alhambra ; more perfect, delicate, and in better taste, 
than the Alcazar at Seville, though very much resem- 
bling it, but not so brilliant in colors ; see the various 
towers, gardens, and grand views of the Vega and the 
Sierra Nevada. 

Note. — The rail being probably now finished (1869), 
it will not be necessary, in coming from Cordova, to go 
entirely through to Malaga in order to get to Granada ; 
but one can leave the Cordova and Malaga rail at a 
point opposite Loja, and thus go entirely through to 
Granada by rail. 

100 



THE ALHAMBRA.] SPAIN. [HOTEL WASH. IRVING. 

April 28. — To the Alhambra in the morning, and 
afterward to the Certuja, founded by Bruno, with won- 
derfully rich marbles from the Sierra Nevada, and 
mosaic tables. 

April 29. — To the Alhambra in the morning ; later 
to the Gardens of the Generallif, the old summer- 
palace of the caliphs, beautifully kept up, and the trees 
(cypress) very curiously trained ; charming roses and 
beautiful streams of water in every direction. In the 
palace is a very attractive portrait of Boabdil, the last 
Moorish king, with a mild and pleasant face, and also 
of all the Moorish and Christian kings and queens. 

April 30. — To the royal chapel in the town of Gra- 
nada, seeing the beautiful tombs of Ferdinand and Isa- 
bella, also of Philip le Bel and Crazy Jane, his wife, as 
well as the sword, crown, and sceptre, of Isabella. In 
the afternoon drive to the spot where Isabella erected 
a church in commemoration of her escape from the 
Moors on the capture of Granada, by concealing her- 
self in a laurel-bush, which still exists. In evening 
visit at the Alhambra, the towers of the Captive Prin- 
cess, and the thr'ee Princesses Zaida, Zoraida, and Zo- 
raihaida, so beautifully told by "Washington Irving; 
also the Mosquita, a little imitation of a Moorish 
mosque, built by a Spanish colonel. 

May 3. — Leaving the Alhambra at 4 a. m. by car- 
riage for the town below, take the diligence and 10 
mules, breakfasting at 10 a. m. in a curious old posada 
at Jaen, and arriving at Menzibar at 4.30 p. m. Here 
dine at station, and, taking rail at 6 p. m., reach Madrid 
next morning at 6.30 (Fonda de Paris). 

May 4. — Drive round the town and to the magnifi- 
107 



MADRID.] SPAIN. [FONDA DE PARIS. 

cent museum of pictures, wonderful in its collection 
of Murillos and Velasquez; also to the Armeria, 
seeing the splendid collection of armor and arms. In 
the afternoon, drive in the Prado. 

]\[ a y 5. — To the Gallery ; later, palace and stables, 
containing 150 splendid horses — some magnificent 
Andalusians; hot and cold baths for the horses. In 
the carriage-houses are nearly 100 carriages, of different 
styles. In the afternoon to Toledo, returning to Mad- 
rid next day. 

May 6. — Taking train at 8.30, reach the famous 
Escurial at 10.30. This wonderful combination of 
palace and mausoleum, built by Philip II. in 1567 (the 
resting-place of himself, as well as that of his father, 
Charles V.), cost, it is said, £800,000; contains 16 
courts, 40 altars, 1,111 windows inside and 1,560 out- 
side, 12,000 doors, 15 cloisters, 86 staircases, 3,000 feet 
of fresco, 89 fountains, and 32 leagues (160 miles) of 
surface. Nothing can well be more severe or gloomy, 
especially the little dark cell opening into the church, 
where Philip died. A portion of the palace, some- 
times used by the present queen (since driven from 
the kingdom), is lovely — the walls, doors, and ceilings, 
exquisitely inlaid in marquetrie ; the tapestry also very 
wonderful, many of the designs by Teniers being still 
perfectly fresh. The Casa del Principe is also a charm- 
ing little palace, the walls and ceilings being exquisitely 
decorated. Pveturn to Madrid at 8.30 p. m. 

May 11. — Leave Madrid by train at 3.30, reaching 
Biarritz at noon next day (Hotel de France). 

May 13. — Leave Biarritz at 12, reaching Bordeaux 
(Hotel de France) at 5.30. ^ 

108 



tocrs.] TRANCE. [hotel de l' universe. 

May 15. — Leave Bordeaux at 9.30 by rail, reaching 
Tours (Hotel de rUniverse) at 5. Beautiful excursions 
maybe made from Tours to the great chateaux of Am- 
broise, Blois, Ohaumont, Chambord, etc., etc. 

May 17. — Leave Tours at 11.30 by rail, reaching 
Paris (Hotel Bristol) at 4.40, 

Note. — The journey from Malta through Sicily and 
Spain occupied about three months ; the actual jour- 
ney through Spain a little over six weeks, at a cost, 
for four persons and one servant, of eight thousand 
francs — say sixteen hundred dollars in gold. 
10 109 



THE END. 



GUIDE-BOOKS 

PUBLISHED BY 

D. APPLETON & CO. 



APPLETONS' 

ILLUSTRATED RAILWAY GUIDE: 

CONTAINING THE 

TIME-TABLES OF THE RAILWAYS 

of the United States and the Canadas ; also, 
ONE HUNDRED RAILWAY MAPS. 

TOGETHER WITH 

A Monthly Account of Railways and their Progress, 

AND 

ANECDOTES AND INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



NEW YORK ILLUSTRATED: 

CONTAINING 

48 PICTURES, ENGRAVED IN THE BEST STYLE. 

1 vol., 8vo. Price, paper covers, 50 cents ; cloth, $1.00. 



HAND-BOOK OF AMERICAN TRAVEL. 

New Edition, Revised and Enlarged. 

In Three Parts: Parti. Northern and Eastern Tour. Part IT. 
Western Tour. Part III. Southern Tour. Published separate- 
ly, and also complete in one volume. 



H 489 85 i 











^0< 

*( > ^. vS^* ^°* •fife'.' H 
























'•^Vo** *o" <k "•».» 







'*V 



l* v \ -.SK* /\ °*?W?-\ **\ 




